|
|||
| Register | FAQ's | New Posts | Today's Posts | Extras |
| » Dryer no heat questions about testing parts with ohmeter |
|
|
By reading any content on this site you agree to AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc. disclaimer and Terms of Use. |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
Model Number: LER3622HQ1 Brand: Maytag Age: 5 - 10 years
This is a Whirlpool compact electric dryer.
Discovered the other day that dryer was not heating. Dryer turns on and turns but no heat. Checked fuse box, it was fine, flipped fuse on and off, still no heat. Got dryer down removed heating element, thermal fuse and thermostat. looked at vent ducting, it is clear. Using an analog tester discovered the thermal fuse has no continuity.(needle doesn't move off of infinity) Heating element: needle goes to "2" High Limit Thermostat: this is hard to test because I can't get the testing tips steady on the ends, but seems to move between 0 , 1 and 2 while I'm testing it. I just ordered a thermal fuse on this site, is my best bet to replace that and if it works, see if I have another failure before replacing something else? dryer has worked perfectly all these years although it may be somewhat louder than it used to be. Ads By Google Related Models Last edited by DG85 : 12-11-2012 at 10:13 AM. Reason: This is a Whirlpool dryer, NOT Maytag. |
|
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model. powered by AppliancePartsPros.com |
|
|||
|
Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool LER3622HQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com See the attachment for the wiring diagram I just ordered a thermal fuse on this site, is my best bet to replace that and if it works, see if I have another failure before replacing something else? Since the vent system checks out OK I would spend some time and try to find out why the fuse blew. Check the heating coil. Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil. Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms. Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the fuse blows. The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow. Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device. Just in case it is not a grounded element. With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced. Check that the belt is OK. Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot. Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow. Check/clean your vent system. Check/clean the blower wheel. If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut) Use a meter scale that is sensitive enough to give you a mid scale reading. If such a scale is available. When you expect 0 ohms use the most sensitive scale. I cannot help much on your meter readings as I have not used an analogue meter is over 20 years. It should give you a steady reading. Below is info on meter usage. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. 4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset. I think you zero the needle using the adjustment just under the meter face on an analogue meter. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
__________________
- |
|
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model. powered by AppliancePartsPros.com |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Testing componenets questions | andygold | Microwave Repair | 0 | 10-06-2012 01:00 PM |
| Purchased replacement HV Diode but not getting expected ohmeter reading when testing | ajl | Microwave Repair | 1 | 01-04-2012 12:07 AM |
| Questions about new parts | lstadel | Washer Repair | 1 | 07-15-2010 05:52 PM |
| Questions on fixing Whirlpool gas dryer no heat problem | yzhong | Dryer Repair | 1 | 06-05-2010 07:32 PM |
| testing parts | don@cchomeloans | Refrigerator & Freezer Repair | 0 | 03-03-2009 10:17 AM |