[Nitro itch]

"After we moved to another house, we dried two small loads and I noticed the clothes were very hot to touch. Then on the third load it blew the fuse inside, but I thought it was because we had a very large load in the drum. So I replaced the thermal fuse and dried two small loads and experianced very very hot clothes and I noticed the belt did sqeal a moment upon start up. Later we attempted to dry a small load and the dryer was dead again. The vent is new, not collapsed, only one bend, no kinks and less than 3 feet long, the exterior duct vent door works fine and it's all ABSOLUTELY clear. The bias thermostast, the thermost and the high limit...all have continuity. Could it be a timer issue? If so what do I check.Please help."

[rickgburton]

Sounds like the internal bias thermostat needs to be replaced. It shows continuity but it sounds like it's not opening when it reaches the correct temperature. In other words, it's probably showing continuity when it's not suppose to show continuity. The temperature at the vent shouldn't go past 190*F.

[denman]

You may want to check the following.
Could be during the move that the element moved/broke and is touching the frame. This is more likely if it is blowing the thermal cut-off on the heater case rather than the thermal fuse on the blower assembly. Just mention this as they are both basically a fuse and it all depends where the element is touching the case.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

[Nitro itch]

It was the high limit thermostat some times wouldn't open...and the dryer belt was so stretched the drum would not spin with any load larger than a small one. Thanks for all the help.