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Recurrent thermal cut off blowing...

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I keep blowing the thermal cut out on the above dryer. Not sure why. No outlet obstructions. The odd thing

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Old 12-02-2012, 04:28 PM
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Default Recurrent thermal cut off blowing...
Model Number: lte6234dq2   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I keep blowing the thermal cut out on the above dryer. Not sure why. No outlet obstructions. The odd thing (I think) is that the hi limit thermostat is good--this should protect the cut out, correct? I'm wondering if something is wired wrong. I didn't pay a whole lot of attention to which red wire went where when I replaced it the first time

My understanding is that when the temp > 250, the Tstat opens, cutting power to the coil. In the case of a Tstat malfunction, the thermal cut out is there for backup. So if the tstat is OK and opens, why would I be burning out the cut outs?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2012, 01:35 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool LTE6234DQ2 Washer Dryer Combo - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram. It should help you check the wiring to be sure it is OK.

Below is my usual blub on your type of problem.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
Attached Images
File Type: pdf LTE6234.pdf (296.2 KB, 8 views)
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Old 12-09-2012, 02:50 PM
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Yeah, I'm not sure why the hi limit t-stat didn't trip before the cutoff--like I said, it does cycle when heat is applied. Anyway, I put the new kit in. Thanks for the wiring diagram. I had thought that all of the wires/tstats were in series and it didn't matter where they went. Looks like that isn't the case though, and I guess I could have wired it to where the hi limit tstat wouldn't have shut the heater, but the cutoff would have. I verified that the unit is now cycling appropriately, with an outlet temp of 125-168' (and I can hear the cycling tstat clicking). No shorts in the heater. We'll see if that fixes it. Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:01 PM
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You are welcome.

I will keep my fingers crossed.
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:16 PM
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Well, that didn't last long. Same problem. I don't understand why when I test it, the cycling t-stat seems to be working. Also I don't see why the cut off would keep blowing when the hi limit tstat also seems to be working. I had some semi-rigid duct in there that was slightly squished, but I don't think enough to limit airflow significantly. Anyway, I replaced it. Total vent run is only about 2-3 feet from the wall, and the dryer is right next to it. Maybe 6 feet total. I seem to be getting a lot of air out the back of the dryer, doesn't seem like any obstructions present. I forgot to check the seals for an air leak, but with the cycling tstat working and the unit cycling, everything appears to be working like it should...
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Old 12-19-2012, 02:53 AM
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First check your wiring.

Next check for a grounded element. The element can short out in many ways and cause problems with different symptoms.

If all is OK as per my earlier post then replace the main thermostat as it may be sticking closed every once in a while. This is a bit of a long shot.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:29 PM
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Default Dryer Cutoff keeps blowing 2 (w meter readings)

Cutoff replaced and blew again

Have checked meter readings

Check the heating coil Yes it is between 10 to 12 ohms.

Checked from each side of the coil to the case/frame yes both show infinite ohms (open).

The hi-limit reads 0.6 to 1.0 ohms

Note: my digital meter shows a static 1 (w/o decimals) for infinity

Whirlpool Model LER4634EQ0
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:51 AM
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Nothandy_ri

I would be best if you start your own post using Post New Topic.

This type of problem can be model specific.
I would follow the recommendations I made earlier if your unit is a close match.

Also I will be unavailable for a few dats as I am off to the cabin to play in the snow.
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:08 PM
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Default Thermal Cut-Off Blew after being replaced

Denman Ok

Reposted as New Post on Dec 28 as "Thermal Cut-Off Blew after being replaced"
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