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Whirlpool Dryer, smoking after replacing cut-off and thermostat

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My dryer quit heating but would run, so I did research and replaced the Thermal Cut-Off Switch and Thermostat. Once

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Old 11-28-2012, 05:41 PM
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Default Whirlpool Dryer, smoking after replacing cut-off and thermostat
Model Number: Model# LE5700XSN0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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My dryer quit heating but would run, so I did research and replaced the Thermal Cut-Off Switch and Thermostat. Once the cut-off switch was installed, we started the dryer and it blew the cut-off switch. Wo we reinstalled the cut-off switch and thermostat again. All items were tested for continuity within the proper ranges. Once those were installed, we ran the dryer for a load of clothes and halfway thru the load, the dryer began smoking and was hot to the touch so much that I actually burned my fingers when I tried to check it. After cooling down, I rechecked the continuity of all the parts replaced and they still tested as "ok", so, I am at a loss as to what may be wrong with this. Can anyone please advise as to what I can check or what the problem might be? Or does anyone know how I can test the timer? Please help!


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 11-29-2012, 02:47 AM
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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool LE5700XSNW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.
It is for a SW1but should be a close if not exact match. I could not find anything on a SW0.

If set to timed dry mid cycle does the timer advance?
If no then odds are you have a power problem. Check Neutral to L1.

If yes then it is probably the thermal fuse (item 23 in the Bulkhead Parts section).
Could also be the motor, door switch or the push to start switch.

Below is my standard blurb on a blown thermal cut-off.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the cut-off/fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
Attached Images
File Type: pdf LE5700.pdf (31.7 KB, 1 views)
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