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msjjap  
#1 Posted : Monday, November 19, 2012 9:29:01 PM(UTC)
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msjjap

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Hello,

I have a Whirlpool Ultimate Care II (Model Number LEQ8858JQ0) in the house I recently moved into.

When I first started using the machine, the dryer would never turn off when running loads using the AccuDry Sensor setting. I would have to turn it off manually. I should note that the dryer was heating properly and, indeed, getting quite hot to the touch when running for an excessive amount of time.

The timed setting, on the other hand, has always worked properly.

The first thing I tried was cleaning out the ducts and removing as much of the lint from inside the dryer as I could. I also put in new ductwork. The dryer worked better after I did that. For about five loads, the AccuDry Sensor mode finished in a reasonable amount of time for the loads in question. After that, though, I ran into the problem where the timer would stop in the middle of the cycle. This would happen with about 40% frequency over the course of ten loads or so.

I then thought that the problem might be the Dryer Moisture Sensor. I replaced that and I saw, once again, an improvement in performance. I'd say that about 80% of the time, the dryer stopped in a reasonable amount of time when using the AccuDry Sensor mode. The other 20% of the time, the timer would only lock up during the Cooldown cycle. The timer has not, over the course of about 20 loads, stopped in one of the drying/heating cycles.

Does anyone have an idea about what might be causing the timer to stop while the dryer keeps going? I feel like there might have been multiple problems initially, and I've solved two of them. But I have a feeling that there is something else going on as well. I'd like to get my dryer to the point where I can know that it will go through the AccuDry Sensor mode completely each time without the timer stopping while the load keeps going for hours.

So basically the questions I have now are:

1) What would cause the timer to stop during the Cooldown cycle but not during any other cycle of the AccuDry Sensor mode?

2) Why does it only happen about 20% of the time?

3) What might be done to get it down to 0% of the time?

Thanks in advance for your help!
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msjjap  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, November 21, 2012 8:27:09 PM(UTC)
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msjjap

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Ok, I did a little more investigation into the timer and found something awry.

One of the wires connected to the timer (a red wire) was only loosely connected. It could easily slide off the terminal and did so when I was checking the timer motor. I traced the loose wire and the other end was the heat selector switch (connection was firm there).

Is it possible that a poor wire connection between the timer and the heat selector switch could cause the timer to freeze up, but only in Accudry mode?
denman  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, November 21, 2012 11:54:23 PM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool LEQ8858JQ0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram

[COLOR="Blue"]Is it possible that a poor wire connection between the timer and the heat selector switch could cause the timer to freeze up, but only in Accudry mode?[/COLOR]
No. The heat selector has nothing to do with the timer motor voltage.

My guess would be that the timer needs replacing.

You will see in the timing chart that T/W and T/WB timer contacts are the ones that power the timer motor. I think one of these is intermittent.

You could check this by unplugging the dryer when it is hung up and then measure across the timer contacts with a meter. Both should be 0 ohms. Use the most sensitive meter scale and touch the meter probes together before starting so you can see if there is a zero offset.

Problem with the above is often any slight jar/tap could close the contacts.
File Attachment(s):
LEQ8858.pdf (342kb) downloaded 9 time(s).
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msjjap  
#4 Posted : Friday, November 23, 2012 1:36:27 AM(UTC)
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msjjap

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool LEQ8858JQ0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

My guess would be that the timer needs replacing.

You will see in the timing chart that T/W and T/WB timer contacts are the ones that power the timer motor. I think one of these is intermittent.

You could check this by unplugging the dryer when it is hung up and then measure across the timer contacts with a meter. Both should be 0 ohms. Use the most sensitive meter scale and touch the meter probes together before starting so you can see if there is a zero offset.

Problem with the above is often any slight jar/tap could close the contacts.


I tested as you recommended. I detached the exhaust vent and ran six cycles of varying types. All cycles completed properly.

I then attached my exhaust vent duct, but a few minutes into the load the vent fell off of the end at the wall (but was still attached to the dryer itself). The duct is new (I bought it a week ago). The timer froze up about ten minutes after the vent fell off, but the cycle kept going. It ran very hot. I checked the T/W and T/WB timer contacts. The lowest setting for ohms on my multimeter is 20. When I used it, it fluctuated but seemed to settle on 1.3 on the T/W and 1.5 on the T/WB.

The fact that I had the problem when the vent duct fell off suggests that that may be the problem. But the ductwork is clean up and down - and I did it less than two weeks ago. Is it normal for a timer issue/overheating to occur when the exhaust vent is only attached to one end (the dryer end)?
denman  
#5 Posted : Friday, November 23, 2012 2:20:53 AM(UTC)
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denman

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[COLOR="Blue"]Is it normal for a timer issue/overheating to occur when the exhaust vent is only attached to one end (the dryer end)?[/COLOR]
No. The unit has no way of knowing that the vent has disconnected.
It should only run hot if it fell off and something was blocking the loose end.

You have lost me with this post as the symptoms seems to have changed.
I thought it was only hanging up in cool down.

Perhaps a little explanation of how it works will help you track it down.
If you look at the timing chart T/WB contacts are closed in timed dry and cool down.
So the timer motor circuit is Neutral , door switch , blue wire to T , Timer Switch 3 T/WB contacts , Timer Motor , BU/BK timer contacts , L1.

When it hits the end of cycle all timer contacts open shutting the unit down.

In Auto modes T/WB is open so the timer motor circuit is Neutral , door switch , tan/white wire to the electronic control. The electronic control then drives the timer motor re: The white/black wire, Timer Motor , BU/BK timer contacts , L1
The electronic control sends a low voltage to the moisture sensor.
when clothes are wet the dampness creates a circuit path between the moisture sensor strips. The board sees this and does not advance the timer.
When there is no dampness, therefore no circuit path, the board then connects the white/black wire to Neutral drives and the timer advances.

As you can see from the above the timer motor circuit is totally separate from the heater circuit.
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msjjap  
#6 Posted : Saturday, November 24, 2012 2:13:15 AM(UTC)
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msjjap

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
[COLOR="Blue"]Is it normal for a timer issue/overheating to occur when the exhaust vent is only attached to one end (the dryer end)?[/COLOR]
No. The unit has no way of knowing that the vent has disconnected.
It should only run hot if it fell off and something was blocking the loose end.

You have lost me with this post as the symptoms seems to have changed.
I thought it was only hanging up in cool down.

Perhaps a little explanation of how it works will help you track it down.
If you look at the timing chart T/WB contacts are closed in timed dry and cool down.
So the timer motor circuit is Neutral , door switch , blue wire to T , Timer Switch 3 T/WB contacts , Timer Motor , BU/BK timer contacts , L1.

When it hits the end of cycle all timer contacts open shutting the unit down.

In Auto modes T/WB is open so the timer motor circuit is Neutral , door switch , tan/white wire to the electronic control. The electronic control then drives the timer motor re: The white/black wire, Timer Motor , BU/BK timer contacts , L1
The electronic control sends a low voltage to the moisture sensor.
when clothes are wet the dampness creates a circuit path between the moisture sensor strips. The board sees this and does not advance the timer.
When there is no dampness, therefore no circuit path, the board then connects the white/black wire to Neutral drives and the timer advances.

As you can see from the above the timer motor circuit is totally separate from the heater circuit.


You're not the only one who's lost :) After cleaning/changing the duct work and moisture sensor, I had the initial problem mentioned in my first post (timer froze up in cool down mode), but it only happened on 20% of dryer runs.

An expert then recommended that I try running the dryer with the exhaust vent disconnected. I did so six times and all dryer runs completed successfully. I then reconnected the duct, which fell off the wall end as I mentioned in my previous post. The timer stalled about 1/3 of the way through the dryer run. I pulled the plug and tested the relevant timer contacts with my multimeter (indeed, I checked the resistance for other parts as well - cycling thermostat, etc - and nothing seemed abnormal).

After your post, I reattached the ductwork more securely and did two more dryer runs without issue.

This problem is very frustrating because I can't reproduce it reliably but at the same time I can't trust my dryer to finish a load on its own. Sorry the symptoms seem to change!
denman  
#7 Posted : Saturday, November 24, 2012 2:37:29 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Sounds like the machine is messing with you.
I can feel your pain as it has also happened to me many times over the years.

All I can suggest is that you replace the timer.
This is just a guess but is the most likely cause.

I hate guessing. It goes against my nature but when a unit has a goblin in it, it is the only option.
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msjjap  
#8 Posted : Friday, November 30, 2012 4:11:46 PM(UTC)
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msjjap

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Well, I think there is some resolution to the problem now. As Denman recommended, I bought a new refurb timer for $40 on ********, and I haven't had a single problem since I installed it.

One thing that I noticed now (but missed before) is that the timer goes all the way to the full off position (past WrinkleGuard) when doing the AutoDry. Before, even when it worked, the old timer would finish the load and then end in the middle of the WrinkleGuard (which I didn't use).

Thanks again for the help.
denman  
#9 Posted : Saturday, December 1, 2012 1:00:49 AM(UTC)
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denman

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You are welcome

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.
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