[dekayz200]

The dryer drum turns, the blower turns, all of the buttons seem to work, but there is no heat.

Apparently, it has been taken progressively longer to dry loads.

I pulled the front & front bulkhead, and checked both thermal fuses, hi-limit thermostat, cycle thermostat, and heating element for continuity which tested good for continuity.

Is it possible that the heating element (or any other electronics) to check good for continuity, but still be bad and need replacement?

There was very little lint inside the dryer itself - barely a light coating along the inner floor. There was nothing obstructing the blower area other than a few deposits of lint. The drum turned when I cleaned the blower fan - no slippage or broken blades.

The control knob seems normal - the starter begins the cycle as expected, but no heat.

I have yet to pull the machine away from the wall, but that will be my next step to check the plug and wiring at the back. No blown breakers either.

Thanks for any help and advice!

[Simon / APP Team]

Hi.

Check if there is 240VAC at the dryer's power cord connector block.

Simon.

[dekayz200]

There is 240VAC at the outlet and going into the dryer.

I found my problem area; how much trouble will it be to fix.





A new terminal block isn't my concern. The melted wires at the L2 go to the light and the drive motor right? Can I just patch in new wires for BU40 and BU28 since the old ones probably won't reach the terminal block after I replace it (at least I don't think they will - they might stretch and I'll terminate new ends if so).

I see how the heater might get fed from BU28 at the Drive Motor Block, but if it was this bad why didn't something else trip OR why was the motor still energized?

The little light had "burnt out" a little while ago - apparently around the same time the heat did too.

I'll check the drive motor connection as well to look for any damage. BU40 for the light was fine at the light fixture.

Will this be quick fix or is it now just a fire hazard and I should replace the whole unit?

Thanks again for your time and advice!

[Simon / APP Team]

Hi.

If you will have a good connection use the extension wires as long as they are the same diameter and metal.
You should not have any more problem.
The L2 wire doesn't feed the power to run the motor. It's the heater's second 120VAC leg.The motor switch close the contacts when the motor is running allowing 120VAC through.

Simon.