[cassnbruce52607@aol.com]

I stopped the dryer midcycle to check to see if the clothes were dry and when I was done taking out the dry ones I went to restart the dryer and it wouldn't restart I changed the thermal fuse thinking it was that, but it still isn't starting, please help!!!! The timer still runs I can hear it when I move it, could it be that it's just the start relay? It doesn't seem as though when I push the start button as though it's as hard to push in as usual:/ Like it has no spring behind it, like normal. My dryer is only a little over 2yrs old!!!!!!! UGH!!!!!!!

[denman]

Here are your parts
Parts for Estate EED4300VQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

It could be a power problem as the motor runs off of 120 volts (L1 to Neutral) but the timer sues 240 volts (L1 to L2). You may have lost the Neutral so I would start by making sure the power is OK.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

[cassnbruce52607@aol.com]

I reset breakers and also checked the dryer belt and the belt was fine and still the dryer is not coming on

[denman]

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[cassnbruce52607@aol.com]

all wires look to be in good shape, none are loose or in burned out condition.

[denman]

You will need a meter so you can check the thermostats, contacts etc. in the heater wiring circuit.

[cassnbruce52607@aol.com]

well all parts are checking out for continuity except for our 220 line, looks like we need to replace it But I guess I should be glad it's not the dryer atleast On the bright side the 220 line is actually the landlords responsability, lol! Lets see which of us really gets stuck paying for it to be replaced, I'm sure since I need clean clothes sooner than later for my kids it'll end up being me though.

[denman]

I am glad you found the problem.


And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.