[Snakebone]

Very perplexed about this one. Dryer will not heat on any setting but blower runs. I have 220V at terminal block (110 on each feed to center and 220 from outside feeds). All thermostats and thermal fuse have continuity as well as hi-limit switch. I replaced the heating element even though the old one had 11ohms as does the new one. The element is not shorted to ground.
Here's the strange part: If I run the machine with the element leads connected to the element, I get 110V on each element lead when tested to ground, but 0V between the leads. Continuity is good at 11ohms. If I disconnect the leads and check voltage between them with the machine running, I get 220V.
Again, I get no voltage across these leads when hooked up to the element, but 220V when disconnected. I must be missing something here. Can anyone add clarity here??

I checked all thermostat continuity with a wire disconnected.

Also, when the timer is in Timed mode,, I don't get the 220V at the disconnected element leads, so I'm guessing that that side of the timer is bad, but in the Auto modes I get the 220V at the leads.

[denman]

Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool KEYE660WWH1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for your tech sheet


Here's the strange part: If I run the machine with the element leads connected to the element, I get 110V on each element lead when tested to ground, but 0V between the leads.
This is not that strange.
I do not know how much electrical you know so will try to explain it.
The house voltage is actually two 120 volt supplies that are 180 degrees out of phase. So when one (L1) is at positive 120, the other (L2) is at negative 120, this gives you the 240 volts (L1 to L2). Note that neutral/ground is not part of the 240 circuit.
When you use Neutral as one side of your meter you see 120 volts on both sides of the element but since the element is good (has continuity), this is probably the same side of the line. In other words the element is not connected to ground so no current flows therefore you see the same voltage at both sides.

Continuity is good at 11ohms. If I disconnect the leads and check voltage between them with the machine running, I get 220V.
Again, I get no voltage across these leads when hooked up to the element, but 220V when disconnected. I must be missing something here. Can anyone add clarity here??
Also, when the timer is in Timed mode,, I don't get the 220V at the disconnected element leads, so I'm guessing that that side of the timer is bad, but in the Auto modes I get the 220V at the leads.
I hope I did not confuse the livin out of you above because this is going to be a bit more complicated.

I think when you measure using Neutral/ground as a reference you are seeing the L2 voltage.
When in timed dry the timer motor is not connected into the heater circuit.
When in auto modes it is through the resistor.
So the L1 side of the line conducts through the timer motor and the resistor so you see 240 volts. But the resistance of the motor resistor combo is so high it limits the current to a low level (0.05 amp approx.) So you do not get any heat, also you do not see any voltage across the element when connected (0.05 amps times 11 ohms would give a voltage of 0.55 volts.
All the 240 is dropped across the timer/resistor.

All the above was just FYI and i am not sure I did a very good job of it.

In any case I agree with you, it is probably the timer since you have checked the Thermal Cutoff, the Operating Thermostat, the Hi-limit Thermostat and the heater.
To confirm this put the unit mid cycle of a heating mode, unplug the unit and one wire from Timer switch 2.
Measure across Timer Switch 2, it should be 0 ohms.
If not is is blown and the timer needs replacing.

[Snakebone]

Denman,
Thanks so much for the reply. Your answer was clear as mud. Just kidding. Actually it was very clear to me and all make sense. Its like a phantom voltage but no measurable amps. I thought it might be that but my VOM can only measure up to 10amps unswitched so I was afraid I might cook it.

I'm still a little unclear on the specific test for the bad timer contact. Are you saying to disconnect the wire from switch 2 (Labeled "R" on my timer) and test continuity from the blade to the wire with the timer in a "Timed" run setting?

[denman]

Yes the blade where R was attached to BK.
The reason you do this is to ensure that you are only reading the Timer Switch 2 contacts and not a alternate/parallel circuit path.

[Snakebone]

You guys are great!! Tested the continuity as suggested and found no continuity so timer was bad. Replaced with new and now it works like new. Thanks again for taking the time to look over this forum. It's a terrific asset to us DIYers and saves us a ton of money. Thanks again!

[denman]

You are welcome

And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.