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Whirlpool timer won't turn on autosense and will not get hot

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My Whirlpool dryer timer will not turn if it is on the auto-sense setting. It will turn if it is

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Old 10-28-2012, 01:06 PM
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Default Whirlpool timer won't turn on autosense and will not get hot
Model Number: TGDS840PQ1   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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My Whirlpool dryer timer will not turn if it is on the auto-sense setting. It will turn if it is on the timed try or the fluff no heat option. Also..the heat will never come on no matter what setting it's on.

I did a continuity test on the high-limit thermostat, thermal shutoff, and cycling thermostat. All seemed to test fine. The cycling one had continuity across the red but not the violet wires.

Do you think it's the timer? or something else? I'm not sure what else to test.


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Last edited by Remi32 : 10-28-2012 at 04:59 PM.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2012, 01:52 PM
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Default forgot to mention I tested the fuse and removed the vent

I forgot to mention that I also tested the fuse for continuity and it tested fine. I did also jump the fuse and it didn't matter.
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:43 PM
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Does the igniter glow?

If it does then the problem very likely is a bad gas valve coils.

- The coil kit Part number: 279834

Part number: 279834



Here are the breakdown diagrams and Parts for Estate TGDS840PQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

Gene.
P.S. Make sure the dryer exhaust line is clean and the vent hose at the back of the dryer is not kinked and/or twisted.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:52 PM
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Hi Gene,

Thanks for the info. I am at work but will look at that ignitor when I get home. I think it does because I was watching down the back of the dryer for the flame and thought it seemed to get brighter but no flame. Will check to be sure it's not just wishful thinking. Will let you know.

Is there a way I can do a continuity test on those coils to be sure they are bad? I ask because I just replaced them unnecessarily last year when I had a bad thermal cutoff switch. They were only $25 from this site but I couldnt' find my old set. I'd hate to replace them again if I could prove or rule them out with a test.
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Old 10-29-2012, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remi32 View Post
...Is there a way I can do a continuity test on those coils to be sure they are bad?..
A continuity test does not work good with this coils because very often they could pass it and then fail under the heat stress.

Gene.
BTW, the price for this kit today is only $15.99 .
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Old 10-29-2012, 04:08 PM
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Just got home and looked through the peephole and the ignitor does NOT glow with the timer on the autosense or timed dry settings. It must have been wishful thinking because I see the ignitor right by the front peephole and I was only looking down the back of the dryer where I usually see the flame reflection.

I forgot to mention that I actually have the vent hose disconnected just to be sure that clogging wasn't an issue.

What should I look at next?

Last edited by Remi32 : 10-29-2012 at 04:15 PM.
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Old 10-29-2012, 04:55 PM
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I would like to confirm that the igniter does glow on the timed dry.

If it does not now, check for 120 VAC to the igniter.

Gene.
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:48 PM
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OK...I am confused. The ignitor was NOT glowing. But since you asked to confirm it I went ahead and took everything apart so I could test the 120 volt. I did a continuity test and the ignitor was good. and then even without the gas I tested the 120 volt and it had 122 volts. So I plugged in the ignitor and I'll be danged if it didn't start glowing!

So I stuck everything together and of course it started working just fine!! My concern is that I have something failing intermittently. I'll see how long this lasts but is there something I can test to avoid this from happening again??
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Old 10-30-2012, 02:12 PM
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One of possibilities is a loose connection somewhere. When you took it apart and assembled it back, you probably fixed it. At least I hope so.

Gene.
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