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LG Tromm DLE5977S is DEAD (No Power)

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Hi, Our Dryer ( LG Tromm DLE5977S ) worked well and then the next time would not start. I checked

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2012, 07:23 AM
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Default LG Tromm DLE5977S is DEAD (No Power)
Model Number: DLE5977S   Brand: -other-   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Hi,

Our Dryer ( LG Tromm DLE5977S ) worked well and then the next time would not start. I checked the Breaker (240V) it is OK! Checked the Power Block on the back of the Dryer it is Ok!

Then I ordered and replaced both boards ( parts 6871EC1115A and 6871EC1121A) for my dryer because it would not turn on when the power button was pressed. After replacing it still would not turn on.

I also checked the following

- thermostat high limit 6931EL3003D RESULT 0 Resistance / closed
Question -- I checked it while installed on the Dryer, I am supposed to remove it first to get a good reading?

- I checked the Door Switch and it seemed right?
--> For the White Cable ( to the Lightbulb) continuity would be open when door closed and the continuity would open when door opens.
--> For the Yellow Cable (Sends power to the Board) would behave the opposite when the door is open then the continuity is open and when the door is closed then the continuity would be closed.

Please let me know what else could it be? what to do next ?

Thanks,
Rick


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2012, 10:13 AM
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Hi.

Do you have power to the control. Does the light works.
If the answer is yes check the blower thermostat and belt switch. Also check the wiring harness and connectors.

The blower thermostat Part number: 6931EL3002A

Part number: 6931EL3002A


The belt switch Part number: 3W40025D

Part number: 3W40025D


Here are the breakdown diagrams and parts for LG DLE5977S - AppliancePartsPros.com

Simon.
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:17 PM
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Thanks for your Help,

I do not have any lights or power. Not in the indoor/tumble area light bulb or on the control board. It is very weird.

I did test for continuity The blower thermostat Part number: 6931EL3002A
and it is closed or 0 Volts

I did the Belt switch test is NC unless the Belt is removed and the switch is tripped as stated on the part.

I did also the thermistor assembly Part Number 6323EL2001B and the ohms come just over 11k ( PS- I am using an analog ohmmeter set to X10)

The only parts left to test are the Motor and Heat element.

Or go back to the Control Boards as the culprit. They ones in are brand new from your website. Although, the machine is still behaving the same as with the original boards.


How do I test the Heat Elements and the Motor?

Any other thoughts would greatly appreciate.

Thanks,
Ricardo
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Old 10-25-2012, 03:02 PM
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Hi.

Check the light bulb, door switch. If there is 120VAC to the dryer and door switch and light bulb is good you should have at list the cavity light on.
Check if you are getting 120VAC to the PCB contacts WH3-1 and RD3-2,3.
Check all the wires between two boards.
Besides that I'm drawing blanks.

Simon.
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:59 PM
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Hi Simon,

Thank you very much for your help. Here is what i have done so far before and after your 2nd reply.

1- The motor works continuity is closed ( 0 volts) and I jump started and it runs.

2- The Heating element works I jumped the 240 Volts (Red, Yellow and Blue) and it fired up as it is supposed to.

3- I had already done the 120VAC to the PCB contacts WH3-1 and RD3-2,3.
I connected the White and Black cables to get the 120VAC. Was that the right way?? This is how I first determined or at least I thought that it would be the PCB. Since power was getting there. ( I installed a new PCB and it did not work so then I ordered the other PCB the one with buttons and still did not work.) Thats how I ended up back here again frustrated but willing to learn to fix this Dryer. I would greatly appreciate it if you can be of further assistance here.

4- Here comes the most weird part of all. The Cavity Light is not going on, but there is 120VAC at the light bulb socket only when the PCB boards are not installed/connected. ( I tested the light bulb and socket plugin them into a wall outlet). If the PCBs are connected then the light bulb socket/wires do not have 120VAC. Again, but the light bulb would not light up even with the 120VAC when the PCBs are not installed.

5- Regarding the wires between the 2 boards I need more information as all I can do until further instructions is visually inspect the wires and connectors. If I have to do some continuity or Voltage test please guide me on how to do this.

Thank you very much,

Ricardo
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Old 10-26-2012, 04:54 PM
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Hi.

Go back to the door switch. There are Common - White, NC - Gray, NO- two wires (Yellow and White).
With the door open should have continuity C to NC (Gray) and door closed continuity C to NO (Yel., White).

You never answer if you have 120VAC at RD3-2 and WH3-1.

To check the wire harness between the boards you need to go wire by wire checking continuity.

Simon.
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Old 10-26-2012, 05:40 PM
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Just to add my 2 cents...

It is very important to remove the wires from the terminals which you are going to test for continuity.

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Old 11-29-2012, 06:23 PM
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Default Finally Problem Solved (LG Dryer was fine after all)

Here is a something for everyone to learn from my dreaded problem with my dryer it took me almost 8 weeks to solve this.

Short story: The 220V power outlet was reading the correct volts with the multimeter, but when dryer was turned on and electricity (load) was demanded it would not even beep or blink ( Completely DEAD!) because a small section (about 6 inches) of the Aluminum wire to the outlet had turned into dust inside the wire harness. We can only presume that the faulty six inches of the wire were getting a high level of humidity from the center blocks that it was coming into contact for over 35+ years and the neutral cable basically turned into a white dust. I guess it could still conduct the 220v for the multimeter test to pass but not enough to operate the Dryer.

Long Story: My diagnosis steps and 8 weeks of No Dryer
1) Tested Power on Outlet - Passed. (Now we know it was wrong)
2) Tested Power on Dryer - Passed. (Now we know it was wrong)
3) Ordered Main Control Board from Appliance Parts Pro - Did not Fix Dryer
4) Ordered Display Board from Appliance Parts Pro - Did not Fix Dryer
5) Called Appliance Repair Man - Told me that it needed new Boards. I thought he was full of BS since I had already did that.
6) Bought a Used dryer, connected it and it would not turn on ( I thought I got ripped off)
7) Bought a new dryer at BestBuy - connected it and would not turn on either.
8) Inspected the Wire from the Electric Panel to the Outlet and found the 6 inch section of the wire that was about 1.5 inches thick hidden behind a stud and against the concrete blocks.
9) Bought new copper Romex wire 10/2 and installed. Checked All three Dryers and they all work fine.
10) Returned Parts to Appliance Parts Pro and Dryer to Best Buy and Now I have to sell a Used Dryer.

This indeed has tested my patience and perseverance.

Hope many others learn something from this and avoid wasting your time like I did.


I have many thanks to tell to AppliancePartsPro folks this is a great company/service and all those who helped in my quest to test the parts of my Dryer.

Thanks Again to All and Best Wishes in your Appliance Repairs...
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:31 PM
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Hi.

We are very glad that you solved this problem.
And thank you for kind words.

Always at your service.

Simon.
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