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Kenmore gas dryer, no heat
Model Number: 110.79522800 Brand: Kenmore Age: 1 - 5 years
I have a Kenmore gas dryer, model 110.79522800 that stopped heating. Drum motor runs fine. Have checked the following:
• Igniter (has no visible flaws, reads 65 Ohms)
• Radiant flame sensor (has continuity, resistance ~0 Ohm)
• Gas valve solenoid coil with 2 wires (will call this the 2-wire coil):
--> Resistance ~1220 Ohm
• Gas valve solenoid coil with 3 wires (will call this the 3-wire coil):
--> Resistance ~1365 Ohm between Black and Blue
--> Resistance ~560 Ohm between Black and White
(Resistance values that I have stated for solenoid coils are approximate as I didn’t write them down, but they were very close to the values listed for reference on the wire diagrams found online…can redo and report exact results if necessary)
All of the info below pertains to initiating a dryer cycle on Automatic, High Heat:
There is no glow on the igniter. I shorted out the leads running to the flame sensor to take it out of the equation. Still no glow on the igniter. Removed the plug going to the igniter and measured voltage, getting only 17 Volts. Removed both plugs going to the solenoid coils and measured voltage at the igniter, getting 120 Volts. Plugged the solenoid coils back in, one by one. With the 2-wire coil plug back in place (3-wire coil plug removed), the voltage to the igniter remains at 120 V. With the 3-wire coil plug in place (and 2-wire coil plug removed), the voltage to the igniter is back to 17 V.
I now have a scenario where I can obtain 120 V to the igniter. So I installed the igniter plug back into the igniter. Left both solenoid coils unplugged and left the flame sensor shorted out (as stated above, this provided 120 V to the igniter.) Turned it on and still received no glow to the igniter. This appears to point to a bad igniter, but before I go buying parts, I need to understand why the igniter voltage reads 17 V when the solenoid coils are wired into the circuit. This concerns me, and makes me think that it’s either not the igniter, or it’s more than just the igniter. Please help…where is my logic going wrong?? Is it ONLY the igniter? Why would the igniter resistance show 65 Ohm if it's bad?
Additional info: I have admittedly not checked the thermal fuse, operating thermostat, or hi limit thermostat (tight quarters and limited time), but since they are wired in series coming from Line voltage, I believe they must be okay if I was reading 120 V at the igniter. There should be no way to read 120 V at the igniter in any scenario if ANY of those components do not have continuity…correct? Additionally, in the scenario whereby I can obtain 120 V at the igniter (i.e., flame sensor leads shorted out, both solenoid coil plugs removed), I ran through all the cycles on the control panel, and receive 120 V during Automatic High Heat, Automatic Low Heat (e.g., delicates), and even Air fluff (which I believe should have no heat), but was getting 0 V when on Timed High Heat. Does this imply the timer may be related to the malfunction?
Sorry for the mass amount of info, hope somebody can make sense of this and help! Thanks in advance. ~Nate
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