[ravynfire]

I have an Admiral dryer that up until about a month ago I have had no problems with, when suddenly it just stopped working. No light when I opened the door, no nothing. After doing some research online it seemed the thermal fuse to be the likely culprit, so I replaced it along with the thermostat which came in the kit, and the dryer sprang back to life. The only problem is, it will only run for about 10 minutes and then cut off. If I presed the button again after it shut off it would work agai for a bit, then after about the 3rd or 4th time of doing this it would finish the cycle. Yesterday, however, it conked out again with no light. Once the dryer cooled off it would run again. I can, however, run it for a full cycle with no heat.

Can anyone offer any guidance in this? Obviusly the dryer is overheating, but with a new thermal fuse and thermostat I'm not sure where to go next. Could it perhaps just be a faulty thermostat? I tried putting the old thermostat in and it does the same thing. Or, is there another part I should be looking at? I have tested with a meter all the connections and everything seems to be getting power appropriately.

Thank you much!

[denman]

Here are your parts includes a wiring diagram.
Parts for Admiral ADE7000AYW Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

so I replaced it along with the thermostat which came in the kit
What was the pat number of the kit. I cannot find a kit with a fuse and a thermostat for this unit.
Also did you clean/check your vent system as this is the most common cause of the thermal fuse blowing.

The only problem is, it will only run for about 10 minutes and then cut off.
By cut off do you mean that the unit stopped running or that you just lost the heat?
Also could you restart it right away or did you have to wait several minutes before it would restart?
If you had to wait the likely cause is that the motor is overheating. It then trips it's internal thermal protect and you have to wait for the motor to cool down before it will restart.

Yesterday, however, it conked out again with no light. Once the dryer cooled off it would run again. I can, however, run it for a full cycle with no heat.
This is very weird as the only component I can see that will stop the unit and also turn off the light is the thermal fuse but once blown it is blown and needs to be replaced.
Are you sure you put the 2 parts you received in the correct locations?

[ravynfire]

I purchased this kit on Amazon:
53-1182 Thermal Fuse Kit REPAIR PART FOR WHIRLPOOL, AMANA, MAYTAG, KENMORE AND MORE

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050KL4Q4/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00


By not running I mean the entire unit stops running. If I press the knob again it will start running again, but does seem to overheat (it wasn't doing this at first, but has started now). Then nothing works - the dryer won't start and there is no interior light in the drum. Once the unit cools, it will restart however. It will run without issue on air dry, with no heat.

[jjaulet]

I have the same problem with admiral gas LNC8764A71, I replace the thermal fuse and blow again, I verify the high limited fuse and have continuity, the cycling Thermostat may are the problem? The dryer is overheating any idea if I have to check other item.

Thank you for your help.

[ravynfire]

Originally Posted by jjaulet

I have the same problem with admiral gas LNC8764A71, I replace the thermal fuse and blow again, I verify the high limited fuse and have continuity, the cycling Thermostat may are the problem? The dryer is overheating any idea if I have to check other item.

Thank you for your help.

Yes, I have the high limit one too. Frustrating! Hoping someone can help?

[jjaulet]

Originally Posted by ravynfire

Yes, I have the high limit one too. Frustrating! Hoping someone can help?

Hello I find this in internet, today a replace the cycling thermostat and remove the flexible vent hose and work. know i have to check the vent duct system to the outside of my home.

On the low setting, that dryer will cycle at about 120 to 130 degrees. The high heat setting cycles at around 150 degrees. There is a thermostat heater that "fools" the thermostat into cycling off the heater at the lower temperature in the low heat setting. I read the replies that you posted on the previous answers provided by Pvalde2 in the above response. You indicated that you replaced the sensors twice in the last year. If the dryer is too hot in the low heat setting, I recommend that you check the cycling temperature in the high heat setting. Although you will normally vent the gas dryer to the outside of your home, you can use this brief test to determine the cycling temperatures of the dryer:

• Ventilate your laundry room as much as possible for this brief test.

• Disconnect the flexible vent hose so that the dryer will vent directly into your laundry room for this brief test.

• Position the dryer so that you can measure the temperature of the air coming out of the vent at the back of the dryer.

• Clean the lint screen thoroughly. If you have not washed the lint screen with water and a soft bristle brush recently, I recommend that you clean it in that manner to remove any fabric softener build-up that could have accumulated on it. Let the lint screen dry thoroughly before replacing it in the housing. This may delay your test but it is best to make sure that the lint screen is completely clear.

• Fill the dryer with a medium load of wet towels. This will give you an accurate indication of cycling temperature.

• Start the dryer on the high heat setting.

• The dryer should heat to about 150 degrees and the cycle between 140 and 150 degrees. You can check the lower heat setting (120 to 130 or slightly higher). Don't run the dryer longer than about 15 minutes with it venting directly into your home. You should be able to determine the cycling temperature in this amount of time.

NOTE: Restore the vent system to exhaust properly to the outside of the home immediately after conducing this brief test .
If the dryer is cycling at the proper temperature when it is venting directly into the laundry room then a restriction in the vent duct system to the outside of your home is likely causing the higher than normal temperatures.
If the dryer is heating to above 200 degrees then the operating thermostat is likely bad.
If the normal setting works properly and the temperature of the low heat setting does not decrease by at least 10 degrees below the normal heat setting then you likely have a problem with the thermostat heater or the temperature control system.
These tips may help you determine the cause of your dryer heating problem. If you need more assistance, reply with additional details about the actual cycling temperatures.
If you do not feel confident repairing this problem yourself, then you can have it repaired at your home by a Sears technician. Here is a link for the website:

[denman]

ravynfire

As I said this is very strange as there is nothing in the motor circuit other than the motor's internal thermal protect which will reset but that should just stop the motor and not effect the drum light.

I would shut power off to the unit and check the connections at the terminal strip. Make sure they are tight and there is no sign of arcing. The white and black wires are the important ones here as they run the motor and light.

If all OK I would also check the power cord plug for signs of arcing.

If OK then check the wall receptacle.

My thought here is that there is a poor connection somewhere in the power line to the dryer. and once it warms up it is opening killing power to the unit.