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Whirpool Electric Dryer LER7646 won't start

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Hi, The dryer cut out in the middle of a cycle and I was able to restart it after it

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Old 09-24-2009, 10:17 AM
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Default Whirpool Electric Dryer LER7646 won't start
Model Number: LER7646   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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Hi,

The dryer cut out in the middle of a cycle and I was able to restart it after it sat for about 15 minutes. I assume it cooled off, I cleaned the duct just in case that was the culprit. It ran OK the rest of the evening, but the next day it shut down in the middle of a load and now it won't start at all.

I set the timer cycles and hear the timer ticking. The start button will make the engagement "click" noise when pressed. The door switch sounds like it's making the click noise to close the circuit ok.

House CBs look OK and since the timer operates I tempted to assume the motor runs off the same leg.

I'm thinking that it can't be the thermal fuse since I was able to get it started once. I called a repair place and explained the situation. He immediately asked me if it was a Whirlpool and said that it sounds like the symptoms of a bad motor. I asked why did he think guess that it was a Whirlpool and he indicated that this is a common symptom and problem. He tolds me I was better off just getting a new dryer. I have one scheduled for delivery on Saturday, but wonder if it is worth tinkering with to determine if it is something else.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-24-2009, 02:16 PM
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You are missing the 3 last digits of the Model Number.
The following info is for a LER7646AN0

Here are the parts
Section replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER7646AN0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%203401723.pdf

Could be the thermal fuse is blown, Item 23 in Section 3
If the motor was running slow for some reason you have less air flow and this will blow the thermal fuse. There are also other possbilities.

The normal cause of this blowing is a dirty vent system but there are many other causes.
Unplug the unit, remove one wire from the fuse and check it with a meter.

If you do not have a meter you can:
Unplug the unit
Remove the wires from the fuse.
Short them together.
Tape them up so they cannot short to the frame.
And give it a try.
If blown replace ASAP as this is a critical safety device.

If it is the thermal fuse, get back to us and we will try and figure out why the unit shut off by itself (probably a motor overheat) but that can be caused by things other than just a blown motor.
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Last edited by denman : 09-24-2009 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 09-24-2009, 06:03 PM
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I did some trouble shooting before I read your post and it was the thermal fuse. I replaced it and it is working as I type. There was some lint in the accumaltion in the vent hose. I got as much out as I could and will replace the vent over the next two days. I never had completely blocked airflow but assume there was some restriction. I think the link filter may have also blocked some airflow as it had built up residue. I think the residue on the lint filter is from those fabric softener sheets that I tell my wife not to use. I am going to order a new one since the screen is wearing thin around the edges and starting to develop holes. It still puzzles me how the first time it cut out it restarted I believe from cooling off. I'm thinking maybe a resettable overload on the motor maybe but not really sure. I am tempted to say the thermal fuse may not have been fully blown and somehow was able to pass current if that's possible, though unlikely.

One other thing.... back in December, the heater element was replaced and the tech told me it may have been from overheating. Maybe this fuse was fatigued but again it still mystifies me that after the first shutdown it restart.

Last edited by defreitasm : 09-24-2009 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:42 PM
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Yes, it does sound like the motor's cutout tripped.

Things to check are:
1. That the blower wheel in the unit is clean.
2. That the interior of the dryer especially the motor is lint free.
3. That the drum is rotating OK. Try rotating it by hand, it should rotate fairly easily. It may have too much load on it.
4. That the internal seals in the air flow path are OK. You are actually pulling the air over the heater and through the drum then pushing it out the exhaust. If there is an air leak you pull cooler (room) air through the blower and this is where the cycling thermostat is so the dryer will run hot.
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Old 09-25-2009, 04:51 AM
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The inside of the machine was fairly clean. I didn't check the seals as I was not aware of this potential issue. I'm hoping that it was merely the restricted airflow through the duct and lint filter. That would cause the same symptoms, correct?
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Old 09-25-2009, 06:50 AM
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I'm hoping that it was merely the restricted airflow through the duct and lint filter. That would cause the same symptoms, correct?

Blowing the thermal fuse for sure.

But the motor overheating no or at least very doubtful.
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Old 09-25-2009, 06:58 AM
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I'm hopefull it is OK as I was able to run the dryer last night for several loads over a period of about 3 hours.
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