[2rpolce@charter.net]

Timer quick working on my 20yr old Kenmore electric dryer (Model 96273800). All heat functions still work but timer doesn't. I replaced the timer with a new one from Appliance Parts Pro (Part Number 9830714 but it still doesn't work; just stays on the setting you start with. What should I try next?

[denman]

Your model number seems to be missing the first 3 digits.
Kenmore numbers are usually 3 numbers, a period and then 8 more numbers.

Does the timer not advance in both auto and timed dry modes?

The reason I ask is that on many units the timer motor gets power through different circuit paths depending on the mode.

[2rpolce@charter.net]

Thanks for the response. The Kenmore Model No. is 110.96273800.

The timer will advance in the "Timed Dry" mode but will not shut off.
The timer will not advance in the other three modes: "Air Dry", "Knit/Delicate", or "Normal/Perm Press" modes.

[2rpolce@charter.net]

Originally Posted by 2rpolce@charter.net

Thanks for the response. The Kenmore Model No. is 110.96273800.

The timer will advance in the "Timed Dry" mode but will not shut off.
The timer will not advance in the other three modes: "Air Dry", "Knit/Delicate", or "Normal/Perm Press" modes.

. Your assistance is greatly appreciated.

[denman]

Here are your parts
Parts for Kenmore Dryer 11096273800 - AppliancePartsPros.com

I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit. Do you have one?
If it has one odds are it is stored in the control console.

Unplug the unit and set the unit to any non timed dry mode. Now check Timer Switch 0 (TM to OR). It should be 0 ohms.
This is the contact set that sends power to the timer motor when not in timed dry.

If OK, check the resistor. It should be around 5,000 ohms. This reduces the 240 heater voltage to 120 for the timer motor. Should be connected to OR of Timer Switch 0.

Check the heater coil should be about 8 to 12 ohms. Also check that each side is infinite ohms to the frame (ground)

I am doing a bit of guessing on the above so do not take it as gospel.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.