|
|||
| Register | FAQ's | New Posts | Today's Posts | Extras |
| » Inglis Dryer Runs/no heat |
|
|
By reading any content on this site you agree to AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc. disclaimer and Terms of Use. |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
Model Number: IED4400SQ0 Brand: -other- Age: 1 - 5 years
My dryer runs, but has no heat. The breakers weren't tripped, but I reset them. There is 240V across the main power wires. Both the high and low limit thermostats have 120V at each wire and 0 ohms across the terminals for each thermostat. The heating element doesn't appear to be physically damaged. I'm out of guesses.
Any suggestions from anyone? Ads By Google Related Models |
|
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model. powered by AppliancePartsPros.com |
|
|||
|
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for Whirlpool IED4400SQ0 29"ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com See the attachment for the tech sheet. There is 240V across the main power wires I am assuming that tis was checked at the terminal strip in the unit. Both the high and low limit thermostats have 120V at each wire and 0 ohms across the terminals for each thermostat. I am not sure what you are calling the low limit? The heating element doesn't appear to be physically damaged. It is best to actually measure the heating coil. Unplug the unit and set it to mid-cycle heated timed dry then attach one meter lead to L1 and leave it there. Then work your way back through the heater circuit. Everything should be 0 ohms till you get to the heating coil then one side of the coil will be 0 ohms and the other 8 to 12 ohms. If all OK then you know that either you have a bad wire or a problem with the motor's centrifugal switch.
__________________
- |
|
|||
|
Sorry, not 'low limit' but thermal cut off and high limit both have 120 V and 0 ohms. Also, I'm not sure which wire in the standard 3-wire grey cable is L1 or the black one? Someone also mentioned to me about a heater switch on the motor. Could this be the centrifugal switch? Or possibly a problem w/ the timer? I checked the cycling thermostat and is 0 ohms across the larger terminals and about 8 across the smaller terminals. Is that good?
Last edited by gkacsandi : 09-29-2012 at 11:53 AM. |
|
|||
|
Also, I'm not sure which wire in the standard 3-wire grey cable is L1 or the black one?
Just measure them back from the terminal strip. Someone also mentioned to me about a heater switch on the motor. Could this be the centrifugal switch? Yes, one of them is for the heater. Or possibly a problem w/ the timer? Yes, Timer Switch 2 on the wiring diagram. I checked the cycling thermostat and is 0 ohms across the larger terminals and about 8 across the smaller terminals. Is that good? Yes
__________________
- |
|
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model. powered by AppliancePartsPros.com |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Inglis Dryer, runs a few seconds, emitting odor | nrw3d | Dryer Repair | 1 | 02-07-2012 06:19 PM |
| Inglis dryer no heat | glennpr | Dryer Repair | 0 | 07-09-2008 11:46 AM |
| Inglis Dryer no heat, otherwise runs fine | Islandbob | Dryer Repair | 2 | 05-27-2008 07:19 PM |
| Inglis Dryer no heat, otherwise runs fine | Islandbob | Dryer Repair | 2 | 05-23-2008 10:33 AM |
| Inglis dryer no heat | RickT | Dryer Repair | 0 | 11-06-2007 04:53 PM |