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Replace thermostat(s)

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I just replaced the heating element, which was totally fried. However, no heat. Should the thermostat also be replaced? Or,

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-21-2012, 05:48 PM
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Default Replace thermostat(s)
Model Number: LER5644JT2   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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I just replaced the heating element, which was totally fried. However, no heat. Should the thermostat also be replaced? Or, to be safe since the dryer is fairly old, should I replace both thermostats? Is there a way to test the thermostats?


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2012, 05:07 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for Whirlpool LER5644JT2 RESIDENTIAL DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

Should the thermostat also be replaced? Or, to be safe since the dryer is fairly old, should I replace both thermostats? Is there a way to test the thermostats?
Thermostat's can be checked with a meter. They should be 0 ohms at room temperature.
Just guessing at what is blown can cost a lot of dollars.

I would check the power first and then the thermostats.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts. This is the heater power.
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!
NOTE: There is a safer way to check for 240 volts on this unit as the timer motor uses 240 volts. So if you put the unit in timed dry mode, mid cycle and start it and the timer advances you know that you have the 240 volts.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf LER5644.pdf (251.5 KB, 4 views)
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