[pgko]

My dryer stopped running so I checked the thermal cutoff by bypassing it. Motor started up so I thought it would be okay to let my wife finish her load. Bad idea! The motor wouldn't start after that. To test the motor to confirm it was bad, I made a 110volt test cord and plugged it in. The motor ran, but cuts out with a burning smell, so I'm willing to accept that its bad and replace it. However, something else is bothering me and I don't want to find other problems after I do that. Why does the motor run when running 110volt directly to it, but not when its plugged in via the 220volt power cord? I don't even get a voltage reading through the 220volt cord. Door switch, start switch and timer motor all tested good with a multi-meter.

[denman]

Why does the motor run when running 110volt directly to it, but not when its plugged in via the 220volt power cord? I don't even get a voltage reading through the 220volt cord. Door switch, start switch and timer motor all tested good with a multi-meter.

Sorry but I do not understand the above. I think I am reading it wrong.

I don't even get a voltage reading through the 220volt cord.
Do you mean that there is no 220 at the terminal strip in the unit?
OR
That there is no 120 volts at or across the motor?

Did you check the thermal fuse on the blower? It will kill power to the motor.

[pgko]

What I mean is that if I remove the 110volt test cord and apply my volt meter clips to the same wires it was attached to, then plug in the 220 volt cord and hit the start switch, I get nothing on the volt meter.

Thermal fuse is completely bypassed (wires spliced together) although it tested fine. I get a click now and then from the timer motor, but that tested fine too.

[denman]

I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit so have to do some guessing.

Does the drum light work?
Have you checked the power at the terminal strip? In this case the L1(black) to Neutral (white) is what matters.

Perhaps try unplugging the unit and measuring L1 to Neutral with the timer at off. Then with the timer mid scale of a heating mode. I am not sure what the ohms reading should be as your timer motor and thermostat heater may be in circuit. Then push the start button and it should drop to a couple ohms as you are switching in the motor windings.

If not then there is an open somewhere.
With luck you have the wiring diagram and then can attach one meter lead to L1 and work your way back through the motor circuit till you find the open.

The circuit is often L1 , BK/BU timer contacts , thermal fuse , motor windings , start switch , door switch , Neutral.

[pgko]

Okay, I've finally replaced the motor. Still have part of the same problem. If I hook up a 110 test cord directly to it, it runs fine. However, when plugged into the 240 wall outlet, nothing. I've checked every single component and they all test good. I've even tried bypassing the fuse and thermal switch just in case I was reading them wrong.

One thing, I cannot get a voltage reading on the red and white wire coming from the start switch to the motor because I cannot press the button and take a reading at the same time. Therefore, I bypassed the switch by touching the two wires together and I get 119 volts right next to the motor.

Another thing, when I read the voltage from the thick red wires on the heating coil, by going from the leads to a ground, I get 120 volts, not 240. Should that be the case?

I'm lost. Please help!!!!!

[denman]

Without a wiring diagram I cannot be of much help.

You have to check the motor start circuit path.

Another thing, when I read the voltage from the thick red wires on the heating coil, by going from the leads to a ground, I get 120 volts, not 240. Should that be the case?
Yes.
On most units there is always 120 volts (L1 side of the line) at the heater when the timer is in a heating mode.
The heater circuit does not use ground (120 volts) so using it as a reference can be confusing as you will not see 240 volts across the heater until the motor is running. The motor's heat centrifugal switch switches in the other side of the line (L2). This then gives 240 volts (L1 to L2) across the heater (red to red).