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Whirkpool running hot & vents have been throurghly checked

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Vents on dryer are clear and vent from dryer to oute was removed and checked and was clear. Dryer temp

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Old 09-02-2012, 08:46 AM
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Default Whirkpool running hot & vents have been throurghly checked
Model Number: LER4634DQO   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Vents on dryer are clear and vent from dryer to oute was removed and checked and was clear. Dryer temp get very hot very quickly. There was never a problem until I tried drying towel twice that were not drying, then discovered belt was broken.

Replaced belt but dryer but dryer to hot to use. Even heats on cool down. Timer moves as usual. Is only problem, motor runs and drum tumbles.


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Old 09-05-2012, 08:33 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for Whirlpool LER4634DQ0 DRYERS | AppliancePartsPros.com

Could be a grounded element.
Unplug the unit and the wires at the heating element.
Measure across the element, should be 8 to 12 ohms.
Then measure from each side of the element to the frame.
Both should be infinite ohms.
If not the element has sagged or broken and is touching the case.
This can cause it to run on high all the time.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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Old 09-07-2012, 06:48 PM
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I really appreciate your response once again about my dryer overheating problems. I am not famiiar at all with doing the posts so I had to start over & am glad you responded. I bought me a digital multimeter for under $20 as you suggested. However I didn't read your post again before going online to see how to use the meter so I tested the heater element for continuity after it was already removed from the dryer and got a reading of 006. Im not sure what you were suggesting, I undestand the frame should be the metal part around the coils but after that I am lost. I have more experience washing & drying clothes than repair. However I have learned many things taking the diy route and love to save money while learning. I have someone I used to work with you can help if needed, but lives too far to ask to come & help until I have figured where the problem is. I tested the hi limit thermostat and if I did that correctly the reading is 0000. I used the places right below the thermostat where wires were connected to test. Is there anything else I can try now or if you need to explain more about the heat element testing I will try again to follow your directions. Thank you
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Old 09-08-2012, 03:44 AM
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see the attachment for your wiring diagram.

Im not sure what you were suggesting, I undestand the frame should be the metal part around the coils but after that I am lost.

If you trace out the circuit ( colored pencils can help you do this) for the heating element you will see it runs off of 240 volts (L1 to L2). If your unit uses a 3 wire line cord then Neutral and the earth ground (machine frame are connected together). Neutral is not part of the heater circuit.
What can happen is that the heater coil can sag or break and touch the case/frame. Depending how it does this then part of the coil is connected from L1 or L2 to Neutral and current can flow but the thermostats cannot regulate it. So the heating coil should always measure infinite ohms (open) when checked to Neutral/frame.

FYI: Your house actually has two 120 volt supplies (L1 and L2) that use a common Neutral. The supplies are 180 degrees out of phase. So when one is at 120 volts positive, the other is at 120 volts negative (when referenced/measured to Neutral) so if you measure L1 to L2 you get 240 volts. This is then what is used to power the heating coil.


I tested the hi limit thermostat and if I did that correctly the reading is 0000. I used the places right below the thermostat where wires were connected to test.
The way you measured it sounds OK to me.
It is what you would expect.
I doubt this is your problem as the hi-limit is a safety device so if everything is OK it never opens.

I hope the above is helpful and I did not confuse you.
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File Type: pdf LER4634.pdf (125.1 KB, 1 views)
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Old 09-10-2012, 01:29 PM
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denman

Thanks so much for your help. After trying the digital meter again and figuring out that the wiring was as it should be, i decided to check my vents one more time since they were usually the overheating cause. I had already taking the outside vent out and ran a brush through it and one detached I could see nothing in there. So I tried the vent filter in the dryer again by running a brush in an out and still nothing. As a last resort I unscrewed the vent and took it out and then seeing nothing still, I unscrewed the cover that went over the fan, motor, etc. Finally down in there was a wad of lint that the brush couldn't reach and couldn't be blown out out. After checking my dryer is running as it should and temp is back to normal. Thanks for helping a girl out, I do appreciate your help and thanks for suggesting the digital multimeter, you were right I do think it was work the less than $20 it cost to rule out the electrical parts that were not the problem. Problem resolved. I am so grearful for this site all of you that are helping people.
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