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New guy here...my dryer stopped working (in that it wouldn't start). I replaced the thermal fuse. It ran for only about 1 day and quit again and the clothes inside were extremely hot. So I replaced the thermal fuse again and the hi-limit thermostat. I removed all of the lint I could find and did find some accumulation inside of the lint tube (if thats what you call it) Its working now but it seems to be running really hot. If I touch the vent hose I can feel how hot it is. I threw some clothes in it and ran the machine with the back panel off. At first the heating element lit up and remained steady without excessive heat. I stopped and re-started a couple of times and all seemed ok. Then I noticed the heating element would turn on and off regularly which I assumed was still ok. But then I noticed that it was excessively hot again and each time the element would turn on or off, there would be a brief flash or two or three of white light. I am looking for any guidance thoughts etc and thank you in advance.
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for Whirlpool WED5300SQ0 29"ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.comIt could be a grounded element. Check the heating coil. Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil. Check it with a meter, should be around 8 to 12 ohms. Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high. From your symptoms there is a possibility that the heating coil is sagging when hot and shorting to the heater case and then disconnecting once it cools down but usually they weld themselves permanently onto the case. So it may check out OK when you measure it. It would be helpful if you could isolate where the white flashes are coming from. There may be some evidence of it shorting on the inside of the heater case (charring or arc marks) On replacing the hi-limit, I doubt this is your problem as the hi-limit is just a safety device so if the unit is running correctly it should have no effect on the units operation. It is backed up by the thermal cut-out (fuse) (Item 9 in Section 1) just in case the hi-limit thermostat's contacts weld together. The cycling thermostat (Item 8 in Section 1) is what actually controls the temperature, |
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Thanks. When I tested it I got zero. (?) I may not have mastered the meter as of yet. To the side was infinity. There does appear to be significant discoloration behind two of areas of the coil and when I saw the light flashes, they very much looked like they were coming from inside the case. Am I looking at replacing the element? Thanks.
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Am I looking at replacing the element?
there I cannot say.
On your meter try a lower ohms scale (200 ohms).
If the scale is too high then you will see 0 ohms as it cannot resolve (not enough digits) a low ohms reading. |
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