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ScottW  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, September 16, 2009 10:46:25 AM(UTC)
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ScottW

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Joined: 9/13/2009(UTC)
Posts: 6

dryer will start but will not heat up
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, September 17, 2009 3:56:34 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Your Model Number seems to be missing the first three digits.

Here is a wiring diagram for a unit which has the same digits as you listed.
http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208528192.pdf

Put the unit into timed dry. Does the timer advance? On this unit (if I have the correct wiring diagram) both the heater and the timer motor use 240 volts. If it advances then you know that you have 240 volts. If not then odds are high that you have a power problem. Turn the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, better yet check it with a meter. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.

Next top of the list items are the heater element and the heater's thermal fuse.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
ScottW  
#3 Posted : Thursday, September 17, 2009 9:21:43 AM(UTC)
Quote
ScottW

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/13/2009(UTC)
Posts: 6

Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Your Model Number seems to be missing the first three digits.

Here is a wiring diagram for a unit which has the same digits as you listed.
http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208528192.pdf

Put the unit into timed dry. Does the timer advance? On this unit (if I have the correct wiring diagram) both the heater and the timer motor use 240 volts. If it advances then you know that you have 240 volts. If not then odds are high that you have a power problem. Turn the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, better yet check it with a meter. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.

Next top of the list items are the heater element and the heater's thermal fuse.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.



sorry first three numbers are 110
denman  
#4 Posted : Thursday, September 17, 2009 9:31:51 AM(UTC)
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denman

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OK then the wiring diagram I supplied should be the correct one.
This unit is made by Whirlpool.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
ScottW  
#5 Posted : Thursday, September 17, 2009 4:52:16 PM(UTC)
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ScottW

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 9/13/2009(UTC)
Posts: 6

Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
OK then the wiring diagram I supplied should be the correct one.
This unit is made by Whirlpool.


wiring diagram link does not work
denman  
#6 Posted : Thursday, September 17, 2009 5:36:04 PM(UTC)
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denman

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Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

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Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Do not know what the problem is I tried the link and it works for me.
Tried it using Firefox and internet Explorer.

here it is again
http://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%208528192.pdf
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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