Discuss

Maytag Electric Dryer won't heat up

 in

Dryer Repair

. "

My maytag electric dryer runs but no heat. I have checked electric plug - shows 246 volts both thermostats -

..."
 
 
Register | FAQ's | New Posts | Today's Posts | Extras
Appliance Repair Forum > Appliance Repair Help > Dryer Repair » Maytag Electric Dryer won't heat up

Post New Thread  Reply By reading any content on this site you agree to AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc. disclaimer and Terms of Use.
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2012, 01:56 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
rajpat25 is on a distinguished road
Default Maytag Electric Dryer won't heat up
Model Number: PYE2300AYW   Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


My maytag electric dryer runs but no heat. I have checked
electric plug - shows 246 volts
both thermostats - showing continuity
heating element - showing 12.9 ohms
what it could be??
I have unplugged heating element and check the input wires while running it shows 246 volts input to heating element. Please help...


Related Models
Maytag PYE2300AYW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYE2300AZW DRYER- ELE
Admiral PYE3200AGW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYE3200AYW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYE3200AZW DRYER- ELE
Admiral PYE3300AGW DRYER- ELE
Admiral PYE3300AKW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYE3300AYW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYE3300AZW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYE3360AYW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYE4500AYQ DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYE4500AYW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYE4500AZW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYE4557AYW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYE4558AYW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYET244AYW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYET244AZW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYET344AYW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYET344AZW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYET444AYW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYET444AZW DRYER- ELE
Maytag PYG1000AWW DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYG2000AWW DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYG2200AWW DRYER- GAS
Admiral PYG2300AGW DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYG2300AWW DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYG3200AWW DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYG3250AWW DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYG3300AWW DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYG3360AWW DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYG4500AWQ DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYG4500AWW DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYG4557AWW DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYG4558AWW DRYER- GAS
Admiral PYGS244AWW DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYGT244AWW DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYGT344AWW DRYER- GAS
Maytag PYGT444AWW DRYER- GAS
Amana QDO-695 RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QDO-695D RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QDO-695E RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QDO-695F RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QDO-695G RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QDO-695H RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QDU-838 RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QDU-858 RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QDU-878 RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QDU-966 RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QDU-976 RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QKO-661 RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QKO-661B RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QKO-661C RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QKO-661D RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QKO-661E RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QKO-751 RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QKO-751A RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QKU-647 RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QKU-647A RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana QMC811 WALLOVEN- STD MWAVE ELE
Amana QMD-800 MWAVE - FAMILY SIZE (60 HZ)
Amana QMD-800D MWAVE - FAMILY SIZE (60 HZ)
Amana QMD-800E MWAVE - FAMILY SIZE (60 HZ)
Amana QMD-810 MWAVE - FAMILY SIZE (60 HZ)
Amana QMD800 WALLOVEN- STD MWAVE ELE
Amana QMD800D MWAVE - FAMILY SIZE (60 HZ)
Amana QMD810 WALLOVEN- STD MWAVE ELE
Amana R-1 RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana R-1H RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana R-1J RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana R-1J MWAVE - FAMILY SIZE (60 HZ)
Amana R-2 RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana R-2 RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana R-3 RANGE- S/C S/I DDRAFT GAS
Amana R-3 MWAVE - FAMILY SIZE (60 HZ)
Amana R0-24-8 MWAVE - FAMILY SIZE (60 HZ)
Amana R0-24-8 MWAVE - FAMILY SIZE (60 HZ)
Amana R0-24-8 MWAVE- MOUNTED OVER RANGE/WO
Whirlpool R101 Air-conditioner/heat pump
Whirlpool R1011 Air-conditioner/heat pump
Whirlpool R1012 Air-conditioner/heat pump
Whirlpool R1013 AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R1014 AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R121 Air-conditioner/heat pump
Whirlpool R1211 Air-conditioner/heat pump
Whirlpool R1212 AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R1213 AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R1231 Air-conditioner/heat pump
 R1404 Air Conditioner
Whirlpool R141A AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R141A1 AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R141F0 AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R141G0 AIR CONDITIONER
Amana R15 MISC / ACCESSORY
Whirlpool R153 Air-conditioner/heat pump
Amana R15A MISC / ACCESSORY
Amana R15L MISC / ACCESSORY
Amana R15LA MISC / ACCESSORY
Whirlpool R183 AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R183A AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R183A1 AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R183A2 AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R183A3 AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R183F0 AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R183G0 AIR CONDITIONER
Whirlpool R183G1 AIR CONDITIONER
Amana R1E MWAVE - FAMILY SIZE (60 HZ)
Amana R1E MWAVE - FAMILY SIZE (60 HZ)
Amana R1E MWAVE - FAMILY SIZE (60 HZ)
Jenn-Air R200 SURFACE UNIT- DDRAFT ELE
Frigidaire R2000DL0 Frg(v1) / Electric Range
Frigidaire R2000DW0 Frg(v2) / Electric Range
Frigidaire R2000LL1 Frg(v1) / Electric Range
Frigidaire R2000LW1 Frg(v2) / Electric Range
Jenn-Air R201 SURFACE UNIT- DDRAFT ELE
Jenn-Air R201-C SURFACE UNIT- DDRAFT ELE
Frigidaire R21CL0 Frg(v1) / Free Standing Electric Range
Frigidaire R21CL1 Frg(v1) / Free Standing Electric Range
Frigidaire R21CL2 Frg(v2) / Electric Range
Frigidaire R21CL3 Frg(v4) / Electric Range
Frigidaire R21CL4 Frg(v6) / Electric Range
Reply With Quote
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2012, 02:50 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 4
212058145 is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rajpat25 View Post
My maytag electric dryer runs but no heat. I have checked
electric plug - shows 246 volts
both thermostats - showing continuity
heating element - showing 12.9 ohms
what it could be??
I have unplugged heating element and check the input wires while running it shows 246 volts input to heating element. Please help...
Just so I understand, you're saying that there's 246V at the heating element connector when running (with element unplugged)... and the element itself seems okay (12 ohms - not open). Can you measure voltage at the element with the element plugged in, and with the unit running? Either the 246V goes away, or a bad element. Do you have schematics?
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2012, 12:59 AM
Senior Expert
APP Volunteer
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 17,591
denman is a name known to all
Default

Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram.
Replacement parts for Maytag PYE2300AYW DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com
__________________
-
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2012, 10:37 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
rajpat25 is on a distinguished road
Default

I do have schematics. what should I look for in it? I will try to measure voltage with the element plugged in and unit running as well. Thanks for reply..
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-08-2012, 04:08 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 4
212058145 is on a distinguished road
Default

Hi. Well if the 246 volts is still present with the element plugged in, then it's a bad element. If the 246 goes away, then there's an overcurrent sensor that's being tripped, again, perhaps by a bad element. How old is the unit? Have you priced an element? I'm leaning towards a bad element, but sometimes the symptoms fool us. Thanks.
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 07-09-2012, 02:46 AM
Senior Expert
APP Volunteer
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 17,591
denman is a name known to all
Default

I have to diagree a little with212058145

Well if the 246 volts is still present with the element plugged in, then it's a bad element.
This I agree with but it would be a very rare problem. Usually if an element goes open (breaks) it will burn out at the break. But rare does not mean impossible so I would check it.

If the 246 goes away, then there's an overcurrent sensor that's being tripped, again, perhaps by a bad element.
There really is no overcurrent sensor in the unit that I know of, I am not quite sure what 212058145 is referring to.
Here is what I think may be happening. If you have a set of contacts or a thermostat that has high resistance due to pitting or whatever in series with the element. Then you still see voltage across the element wires when it is disconnected. But as soon as you connect in the element all the voltage is dropped across the high resistance and you will get a low voltage across the element.

So if the first test brings no joy, unplug the unit and check the operating thermostat, hi-limit thermostat temperature selector switch and timer contacts L/H. All should be 0 ohms when in a heat cycle.

Be sure to disconnect at least one side of what you are checking this prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.

Another possibility is a bad connection in the heater circuit (may even be in the wall plug) that opens as soon as any real current passes through it. Again rare but then your problem is a strange one.
__________________
-
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 07-10-2012, 10:53 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 4
212058145 is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
I have to diagree a little with212058145

Well if the 246 volts is still present with the element plugged in, then it's a bad element.
This I agree with but it would be a very rare problem. Usually if an element goes open (breaks) it will burn out at the break. But rare does not mean impossible so I would check it.

If the 246 goes away, then there's an overcurrent sensor that's being tripped, again, perhaps by a bad element.
There really is no overcurrent sensor in the unit that I know of, I am not quite sure what 212058145 is referring to.
Here is what I think may be happening. If you have a set of contacts or a thermostat that has high resistance due to pitting or whatever in series with the element. Then you still see voltage across the element wires when it is disconnected. But as soon as you connect in the element all the voltage is dropped across the high resistance and you will get a low voltage across the element.

So if the first test brings no joy, unplug the unit and check the operating thermostat, hi-limit thermostat temperature selector switch and timer contacts L/H. All should be 0 ohms when in a heat cycle.

Be sure to disconnect at least one side of what you are checking this prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.

Another possibility is a bad connection in the heater circuit (may even be in the wall plug) that opens as soon as any real current passes through it. Again rare but then your problem is a strange one.
Hi. I don't have the schematics for the unit unfortunately, so I'm just trying to quickly eliminate the element OR determine that it is a bad - basically remove a variable from the equation. The symptoms sound a little strange to me too, if the voltage is present at the element, and the element doesn't heat up, then it's a bad element. If the voltage drops when the element is in the circuit, well then the problem is upstream a bit. I'd be tempted to test the element outside of the unit, again just to determine whether or not the element is bad, but I wouldn't necessarily ask someone else to try that. I still say measuring the voltage at the element (with the element plugged in) will provide a big clue to the solution.
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2012, 01:45 AM
Senior Expert
APP Volunteer
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 17,591
denman is a name known to all
Default

212058145

I still say measuring the voltage at the element (with the element plugged in) will provide a big clue to the solution
.
I agree with you.
If the element has 240 across it and does not heat up then the element must be toast. Would be weird but weird happens.

Also bench testing with 240 is not for a novice.
It is a good way to get hurt or scared badly when wires short out and you have a large arc and spark.
__________________
-
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-27-2012, 08:51 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 3
rajpat25 is on a distinguished road
Default

I am testing the thermostat ( 53-0771 ) gives me the following results:
1. If I measure it as is or put on the hard surface it shows 0 ohm which is good.
2. If I measure while touching the bottom round moving disc part ( where is says G1 and TOD ) or put on the soft surface like carpet ( so the bottom moving disc will be pressed a little bit ) it shows no continuity. Is this the way it should be? or my thermostat is bad?
Should I try running the unit connecting two wires directly without thermostat just to see if it is heating or not?
Reply With Quote
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Maytag Neptune Electric Dryer No Heat jrvier Dryer Repair 4 11-14-2011 12:46 PM
No heat in Maytag Electric dryer mikecohrs Dryer Repair 6 02-26-2011 05:51 AM
Maytag Electric Dryer Won't Heat ayersl Dryer Repair 7 02-26-2010 03:09 PM
Maytag Performa Electric Dryer No Heat linktlife Dryer Repair 7 11-03-2009 04:07 PM
Maytag electric dryer heat stays on SusanMKoehler@comcast.net Dryer Repair 2 10-27-2009 01:39 PM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:07 AM.

The content on this web site is for informational purposes only and is not intended to replace an on-site diagnosis from a qualified appliance service technician. By reading any content on this site you agree to AppliancePartsPros.com , Inc. disclaimer and Terms of Use.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17