[krSRinPA]

My wife was using the dryer, opened the door to check the clothes, shut the door and when she pushed the start button again the drum would not turn. The elements heat up and the timer is still running but no rotation of the drum. The drum turns freely and the belt is in tact. No noise from the motor. Also if you open the door the heating elements stay on which I thought the door switch would not allow. Is it possible several failures at the same time? Thanks for any suggestions.

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for Estate EED4300TQ0 29" ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

Sounds like it may have blown the thermal fuse.

There seems to be a problem with the parts breakdown and the wiring diagram.
There is usually a thermal fuse on the blower assembly but the parts does not show one. This is the fuse that is in-line with the motor in the wiring diagram.
Check to see if the unit has one. White rectangular device with 2 wires going to it. It should be 0 ohms.

It is a little strange that a grounded element would blow that thermal fuse as it normally blows the thermal cut-off (Item 6 in Section 1). Basically this is also a thermal fuse just looks different.

Also a good time to check/clean your vent system.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.