[VincBettermanne]

I have a Frigidiare dryer with the following problem. When the dryer is run with any heat setting within minutes of starting it up it becomes very hot and starts to make a growing sound that gets louder if the dryer is left running. The cabinet becones very hot on the top right hand corner and the right side.
I have already replace the drum bering but the problem remains. If the dryer is run on 'Air fluff' it runs normally and the noise never occurs.
It appears to me that there is a problem with one of the following parts, the high temp thermostat, the cycling thermostat, the thermal limiter or possibly the motor. I would like to replce only the failing part and not find it by successive part replacement if possible. Thanks.

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for GLER341SA2 models | AppliancePartsPros.com

First have you checked/cleaned your vent system.
Unplug the unit and disconnect it from the vent system.
Now try a run.
If it now dries OK odds are the vent system needs checking/cleaning.
Be sure to check that the louvers on the outside of the house open correctly.

If you do not want any lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose.
Put one leg into the other and then attach this to the dryer's vent.
Leave enough room so the pantyhose can balloon out like a windsock.

Both the above will let you check the temperature and the air flow.

Note: The above is not recommended for gas dryers due to carbon monoxide concerns.

the high temp thermostat, the cycling thermostat, the thermal limiter or possibly the motor.
High temp thermostat - No: this thermostat should not control the temperature unless there is a problem in the unit. It is just a safety device.
Cycling thermostat - This is a possibility re: it's contacts are welded together.
Thermal limiter - No: this is a fuse so you would get no heat if it was blown. It is a back up for the hi-limit thermostat just in case it fails.
Motor - Possibly but if you have good air flow it is unlikely.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 13 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.