[jimshahan]

Hello from Texas. First...GREAT web site! Thanks for that. So, dryer runs but does not heat and timer does not work. I read the threads and advice and began to troubleshoot. Using the wiring diagram taped to the inside of the dryer, and my trusty DMM, I measured all the devices, making sure of wire colors, and Ohms, etc. Everything came out to what it was supposed to be. Then I got to the temp. selector. The diagram says on high heat settings there should be 10K Ohm max, and DMM says about 8k Ohms. On the low settings there should only be 10 Ohms, and DMM says about 9-10 K Ohms. That is a big bifference. So my question is can the low temp selector cause my problem? I looked for the part # (m460-g) that is stamped on the part, but did not see it on your site. I am sure you have it though. Sorry about the lengthy mail, but I wanted you to know everything I have done to troubleshoot. Roper model # REX5634KQ1, and the timer unit says model # M460-G. Thank you for your time! - Jim

[Gene]

Hi Jim,

Lets confirm results of your tests. The thermal cut-off, the cycling thermostat and the hi limit thermostat (#6, #24 & #15 on the diagram) should show about 0 Ohms while the heater should read 7.8 to 11.8 Ohms. Is these what you've got?

I do not think there is something wrong with the temperature selector. If all of the above parts are good then check for continuity between the "R" and "BK" timer terminals while the timer is in "On" position.

Post the results.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and replacement parts for the Roper dryer Model REX5634KQ1

Gene.

[jimshahan]

Hey Gene! Thanks a lot for the reply. O.K., #6,24,15 all read zero ohms. Element is at 9 Ohms. I will check those timer terminals when i get home from work. Thanks, I'll get back to ya'.

[denman]

Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/w...%208528187.pdf

Since you said the timer does not advance and it is a straight forward circuit I would use it to troubleshoot. I am assuming that you have checked that you are getting 240 volts.

Put the timer into timed dry mode
Circuit is L2 , Centrifugal Switch 2M/1M , Timer contacts WB/TM , Timer Motor , Timer Contacts BU/BK , L1

Unplug the unit and check the above mentioned timer contacts.
Remember to unplug the wire from one side of the contacts you are reading. This prevents you from reading the resistance of an alternate/parallel circuit path.

If OK then my guess would be that you either have a broken wire or the centrifugal switch contacts are not closing for some reason.

[jimshahan]

Originally Posted by Gene

Hi Jim,

Lets confirm results of your tests. The thermal cut-off, the cycling thermostat and the hi limit thermostat (#6, #24 & #15 on the diagram) should show about 0 Ohms while the heater should read 7.8 to 11.8 Ohms. Is these what you've got?

I do not think there is something wrong with the temperature selector. If all of the above parts are good then check for continuity between the "R" and "BK" timer terminals while the timer is in "On" position.

Post the results.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and replacement parts for the Roper dryer Model REX5634KQ1

Gene.

Gene I re-checked 6,24,15. All shorted. And heater @ 9 Ohms. When I checked timer terminals R and BK, all timer settings had continuity except no
heat/fluff wich read open. Hope I did the right thing. Thanks for your time.

[Gene]

Have you unplugged the wire from at least one side of the contacts you were reading, as denman advised?

Gene.

[jimshahan]

Hi Gene. I did in fact lift a wire from each device. R and BK are red and brown, correct? I lifted the red, and in the mode we use it in, they were shofted. At first I thought the black wire was BK, but it looks like the brown is BK. Thanks for your time. -Jim

[Gene]

Hi Jim,

In the wire color code "BK" usually states for Black. Also on the wiring diagram, posted by denman, you can see the timer diagram with the wires and terminals location shown.

Two more things:

1. Have you checked for 240 VAC to the dryer? Motor needs only 120 VAC while the heating element and the timer motor will work with 240 VAC only.

2. If there is 240 VAC to the dryer then it is very important to run the tests recommended by denman.

Gene.

[jimshahan]

Gene, I plugged in the dryer, and had only 105 vac at the terminal block. I lifted the white wire from the circuit and WB and TM are shorted. Yhanks for your time. -Jim

[jimshahan]

Also when I had it plugged in, measuring VAC at the terminal block Black and White read 120 VAC, and Black and Red read 105 VAC.