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Check out the heater element.
Remove both wires from it then check it for resistance usually around 10 ohms. Then check each terminal to the case/frame should be infinite (open). In not then you have a grounded element which can cause it to run unregulated. Could be it is broken and touching the case or may have sagged and touching the case. You can heat up the thermostats on a stove top element to see if they open. Usually you can hear them click and then check them for resistance. If not their internal contacts are welded together. Be careful not to burn yourself.
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When it is open it should be infinite.
Do not know what type of meter you are using but it should read the same as when the meter leads are not touching each other. My Fluke just shows 1 on the left hand side and a decimal point.
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I have digital which reads 1 when not touching. I got another high limit switch and they both open and read the same until they close so I assume they are good???
The heating element case does touch the cabinet but I don't see how it could not since it is screwed to the cabinet. Can I test the control stat the same way and if so, what am I looking for since we have 4 terminals. |
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Sorry about that. The heating elememt itself is not touching the case (which is screwed to the cabinet) When I disconnect the terminal, I get a reading of 11.7 ohms.
If the element is good and the high limit switch is opening, are we down to checking the control stat and if so, how would I do that? |
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I have digital which reads 1 when not touching. I got another high limit switch and they both open and read the same until they close so I assume they are good???
Yes, they also look good to me also The heating element case does touch the cabinet but I don't see how it could not since it is screwed to the cabinet. The element should feed through insulators into the case. Note: the element runs off 240 volts(L1 to L2) with all the control thermostats wired is series with it so if it touches the case (Neutral) it can do all sorts of weird and not so wonderful things depending where it touches. Can I test the control stat the same way and if so, what am I looking for since we have 4 terminals Yes you should be able to. A 4 terminal thermostat is usually 2 terminals for the contacts and two terminals for an internal heater. This heater is turned on for different temp selections, it adds heat to the thermostat causing it to cycle more often, reducing the machines temperature. Usually it measures around 4 or 5 kilohms. Do not know if you have a wiring diagram, if not take a look inside the control console. They like to put it in there. Getting wiring diagrams for a GE off the web is difficult to say the least. They like to keep that info secret and keep their techs busy. So I cannot be 100% sure about the above as I do not have a wiring diagram.
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when i test the control stat, I have 0.000 on the end to end terminals and 1.0 on the top to bottom which according to the diagram is the heater contact you discribed. When I hear it click, I test both sets and they both read 1.00. When the stat click back or opens the I get the original readings. Should they both be open??
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when i test the control stat, I have 0.000 on the end to end terminals and 1.0 on the top to bottom which according to the diagram is the heater contact you discribed. When I hear it click, I test both sets and they both read 1.00. When the stat click back or opens the I get the original readings. Should they both be open??
No only the contacts should open but your reading seems to indicate that the contacts are not opening. Note: I did find a couple GE wiring diagrams that used an internal heater and both of them showed the heater as 9 kilohm. Your readings show that something is haywire with this thermostat.
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