Discuss

Dryer too hot in back and top

 in

Dryer Repair

. "

Thanks for all the help. I am replacing both due the age of the dryer. Let you know how it

..."
 
 
Register | FAQ's | New Posts | Today's Posts | Extras
Appliance Repair Forum > Appliance Repair Help > Dryer Repair » Dryer too hot in back and top

Post New Thread  Reply By reading any content on this site you agree to AppliancePartsPros.com, Inc. disclaimer and Terms of Use.
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 09-16-2009, 09:25 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 9
donald.may is on a distinguished road
Default

Appliance Parts from AppliancePartPros.com


Thanks for all the help. I am replacing both due the age of the dryer.

Let you know how it goes.

Reply With Quote
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2009, 11:03 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 9
donald.may is on a distinguished road
Default

Just how hot should the back of the dryer get? I replaced both stats, checked the heating coil, cleaned everything and the back is still getting real hot.
Reply With Quote
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2009, 03:32 AM
Senior Expert
APP Volunteer
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 17,652
denman is a name known to all
Default

Hot is a relative term so I cannot really say other than they can get fairly hot.

Everything checks out OK yet you still have a problem. I would say the internal temperatures of the drier are OK because you have not blown a thermal fuse.

The only other thing I can think of is the heat is escaping into dryer case due to a bad seal but I would have thought it would cause the unit to run too hot and blow the thermal fuse.

I'M STUMPED

I am going to post this thread in the Tech Talk section with a little luck someone else will have an idea or see something that I have overlooked.
__________________
-
Reply With Quote
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2009, 05:17 AM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 9
donald.may is on a distinguished road
Default

thanks for the reply. the back gets hot enough that you cannot keep your hand on it for more than a second. It is hot on the heat shield but more so on the left side looking from the back. This is where the info sticker was and it got scorched off due to the heat.
Reply With Quote
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2009, 06:15 AM
Frank / APP Team's Avatar
Senior Expert
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 393
Frank / APP Team is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
when i test the control stat, I have 0.000 on the end to end terminals and 1.0 on the top to bottom which according to the diagram is the heater contact you discribed. When I hear it click, I test both sets and they both read 1.00. When the stat click back or opens the I get the original readings. Should they both be open??

No only the contacts should open but your reading seems to indicate that the contacts are not opening.

Note: I did find a couple GE wiring diagrams that used an internal heater and both of them showed the heater as 9 kilohm.
Your readings show that something is haywire with this thermostat.

Does the meter being used have the capabilities of checking temps? If yes, I'd suggest getting the probe to dangle right in front of the filter inlet and see just what kind of temp it's producing in the drum. If it's in the range of the cycle stat differential you know it's working correctly. Could also check the out going air a few inches inside the dryer vent and it should be close.

For what it's worth, and it's been awhile since I ran lots of house calls, but I know I remember seeing discolored wiring diagrams, along with discoloration of back panels. Never thought a whole lot of it. Maybe I'm way off base, but sure don't remember any fires caused by it.

Is it a long vent run? If there are elbows involved, how many?
__________________
Find Appliance Parts at AppliancePartsPros.com - Largest inventory in the U.S. with 91% of all in-stock orders delivered within 2 business days. Thousands of photos and diagrams make it very easy to find the right part. Enter your appliance model here.
Reply With Quote
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-19-2009, 01:56 AM
Senior Expert
APP Volunteer
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: State College, Pa.
Posts: 9,534
richappy is a name known to all
Default

I would jam a cheap oven thermometer in the dryer output ducting and measure the temperature, probably around 150-165 degrees. If so, you have a airfrow problem. I would check for airflow problems inside the dryer.
I use a cheap ,U shaped, four inch high manometer (Dwyer model 460) about $18 and use the airflow from a known "good" dryer as a reference pressure.With two plastic balls in the manometer, they rise to the top for good airflow. For poor airflow, the balls will only get 1/4 to 1/2 up. This manometer will pick up non-laminar flow (turbulence), usually due to a lint clog, collapsed duct, or any fitting that causes the air to hit a perpendicular surface, ex. a thin box adapter.
Without a manometer, you can use a piece of string and compare how high it goes compared to a known "good" arflow from another home dryer vent.
You can use it to compare airflow right from the dryer to the airflow outside when the ducting is attached.
__________________
-

Last edited by richappy : 09-19-2009 at 04:04 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2009, 10:35 AM
Senior Expert
APP Volunteer
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 322
glen65 is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by donald.may View Post
thanks for the reply. the back gets hot enough that you cannot keep your hand on it for more than a second. It is hot on the heat shield but more so on the left side looking from the back. This is where the info sticker was and it got scorched off due to the heat.
If you haven't done so already disconnect the vent from the
back of the dryer then run it on the cycle you normally use.
Does it run any cooler? If no difference then pull the drum
out of the dryer and inspect the element. Check to see
if the coil is touching the case or if one of the insulators
the coil is strung through is allowing a connection or path to
ground. Also while you have the front off check the vent
assembly that the lint filter sets into. Also check the blower wheel.

Last edited by glen65 : 09-20-2009 at 10:37 AM.
Reply With Quote
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Dryer won't heat and I don't know how to take the back cover of the dryer off to chec dcwike Dryer Repair 2 11-25-2009 07:40 AM
How to take dryer apart to get to back JDC4822 Dryer Repair 1 05-18-2009 03:50 PM
dryer is hot in the back hoote123 Dryer Repair 1 10-19-2008 02:35 PM
Can't get dryer back together floridares2005 Dryer Repair 3 08-29-2008 06:57 AM
The back of my dryer gets hot. rtmyerswv Dryer Repair 1 11-25-2007 06:24 AM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:33 AM.

The content on this web site is for informational purposes only and is not intended to replace an on-site diagnosis from a qualified appliance service technician. By reading any content on this site you agree to AppliancePartsPros.com , Inc. disclaimer and Terms of Use.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17