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Relay,push to start

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My dryer will not start. I think it might be my relay to start switch. Is there any way to

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2009, 11:52 AM
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Default Relay,push to start
Model Number: 3398096   Brand: Roper   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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My dryer will not start. I think it might be my relay to start switch. Is there any way to test it? Or could it be something else? The dryer ran fine up until now.


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Last edited by edgecknight : 09-14-2009 at 11:56 AM. Reason: missed a word.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2009, 04:38 AM
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Cannot find any info using the given Model Number so here is a good site with troubleshooting help
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryers.html

Try to find the wiring diagram may be pasted on the back cover or in the control console.

Could be a number of things.
I am assuming it is electric.
1. Check that the unit is getting the correct power 240 volts from L1 to L2 and 120 volts from L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral. Try turning the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker
2. Could be the door switch is not closing or is toast
3. Most units have a thermal fuse that kills power to the motor if it blows.
Often a white device on the blower assembly. This can also be checked by unplugging the unit, removing the wires from the fuse, taping them together so they cannot short to the frame then giving it a try. If it is blown replace it ASAP as it is a critical safety device. If it is blown be sure to clean/check the blower wheel and the vent system.
4. The relay coil can be checked for continuity with a meter also if it is the type that is an integral part of the start switch the contacts can be checked.

There are a number of other things that can cause a no start.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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