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Fixnitmyself  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, May 16, 2012 12:36:00 PM(UTC)
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Fixnitmyself

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Joined: 5/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 2

Hello, I'm new here, thanks for any help/suggestions! Here is what I know so far about my dryer: Something caused the thermal fuse near blower fan to blow. The first thing I did was check for lint build up/clogs. Took off lint chute-there was a little lint near the bottom, which I cleaned. Saw no other lint inside dryer.
Vent hose was clear, as well as outside vent housing. Bought a new thermal fuse, the guy at the parts store said it's possible a lightening strike from a recent storm could have caused fuse to blow. Went home and installed new fuse. Used dryer as normal, after a little while, fuse blew again. Opened door of dryer and found it to be extremely hot, clothes were too hot to even touch. Checked thermostat near blower (lower temp thermostat) checked good at room temperature. When I heated it, it did click off, but I have no way of knowing at what temp. it clicked off at. Did the same with the thermostat near heat coil (high temp thermostat) with same results-still I have no way to tell if they are clicking off at the proper temp. I took the heat coil off and looked it over, I didn't see any place there could be a short, but not positive. I'm going to also replace the lint screen and blower seals, they look pretty crumbly. Anyway, not sure what to do, should I just go ahead and buy new thermostats and hope that's the problem? Is there something I haven't thought of? :confused:
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, May 17, 2012 2:11:23 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for Whirlpool LER7646EQ2 ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

I would check the heating coil for grounding with a meter.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.

If it is OK then I would replace the main control thermostat on the blower.
The reason is that it sees the same temperature as the thermal fuse (also on the blower) so must not be opening when it should at least that is my thinking.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
LER7646.pdf (216kb) downloaded 4 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Fixnitmyself  
#3 Posted : Thursday, May 17, 2012 5:10:29 AM(UTC)
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Fixnitmyself

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Joined: 5/16/2012(UTC)
Posts: 2

Thanks! Very much appreciated, I'll check all things mentioned.
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