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Have tested w/ digital multimeter @ thermal fuse ,OK-Push button on switch,OK, and door switch OK. Motor turns freely and looks in great shape, no blockages in system. Thermal high end device has 4 posts 2 larger ok for OHM test 2 smaller show6.9 ohms. What is proper test technique for that? Also how to ohm test motor itself? Thanks JW
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Silly question:
Have you checked to see if you're getting 240VAC at the outlet?
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Second silly question
What is the problem? |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Hey guys, yeah power active line great breakers intact,new. Power to unit is active so as door opens light on, spin dial to set say 15 minutes drying time & hit start button nothing. Move dial back to off position & then hit start button and result buzzer sounds. Yes power source is OK, outlet perfect,cord superior shape, all connections inside unit precise & clean. No dirt at all in anything inside unit. Refer to original post for Q Thanks JW
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You have a bad belt switch.
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where is location of switch & part # anyone? Thanks
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for Kenmore 11067422600 | AppliancePartsPros.comIf you go to the Sears parts site they have actual parts breakdowns but they like to keep those4 in house. See the attachment for the wiring diagram The unit is actually a Whirlpool. I think you are confusing the hi-limit with the operating thermostat, it has 4 connections 2 are the contacts they should be 0 ohms. The other 2 is an internal heater, it is usually around 5,000 to 20,000 ohms so your reading seems very low. As far as a belt switch I do not see one so Appliance Spy will have to answer that question. The thermal fuse you checked was the one on the blower assembly, correct? This is the only one that effects the motor starting. Since the interior light works you have the power required to start the motor. Check BK/BU on the timer, they route power to the motor. When checking thermostats etc. did you disconnect at least one side of the part. This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path. |
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Thanks, Yes it was high limit thermostat I checked. I believe the only breaker fuse in unit? is one I tested & it was good. And I disconnected both sides to test, was that right? Sorry test @ 200k setting & got 6.900 is that 6900 ohm reading for high limit thermostat ? Will look at bk/bu terminals ,how to test them both off ,one off what reading infinity vs reading level?
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Originally Posted by: denman  The n00b has been silenced.
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You only have to disconnect one side of a part or contacts you are checking.
This removes it from in circuit. |
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