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js072384  
#1 Posted : Saturday, May 12, 2012 9:15:49 PM(UTC)
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js072384

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Joined: 5/12/2012(UTC)
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Alright here's what I got, I changed the four prong plug to a three prong plug but I failed the ground the chasis ground to a pipe or something, I ran three loads of laundry and then a popping noise, I took the lid off and checked to see if the belt was still attached, it was i rolled the barrel over to see if the motor was spinning freely, it was I checked the power board located above the drum and I noticed that one of the traces was burned coming in from the main power, it was the neutral, I repaired the trace and tested the dryer with lid off, I then re-assembled the dryer and when I went to try it again it turns on front display but when I start the cycle my plug arks out, I killed the power and then took it back apart and checked if you repair was jumping to the 110 leads con continuity from neutral to positive, why am I arking out is it the lack of the chasis ground, maybe something to do with the grounding of the motor??? any input would be wonderful
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denman  
#2 Posted : Monday, May 14, 2012 3:50:05 AM(UTC)
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denman

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I cannot find any info on the given model number.
Tried AppliancePartsPros and the GE site.
Please check it
Model Number Locator

FYI:
A 4 wire hook up uses a separate Neutral and earth (chassis) ground.
A 3 wire just uses the Neutral. The chassis is then connected to Neutral.
Either by adding a wire or some other method. The install or operators manual should cover this.
You do not hook the unit to a pipe etc.

I cannot say what is happening could you explain it differently as I do not understand all the post.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]I repaired the trace and tested the dryer with lid off, I then re-assembled the dryer and when I went to try it again it turns on front display but when I start the cycle my plug arks out,[/COLOR]
If it ran good with the lid off then I would say that you inadvertently shorted something when you put the lid back on. So I would remove the lid again.
Why did you take the lid off just to replace the line cord?

[COLOR="DarkRed"] I killed the power and then took it back apart and checked if you repair was jumping to the 110 leads con continuity from neutral to positive, why am I arking out is it the lack of the chasis ground,[/COLOR]
On most units not having the chassis connected will not cause an operational problem. But it is a BIG safety problem because if one of the lines (L1 or L2) should short to the chassis your dryer's chassis will have 120 volts on it. Touch it and a ground (pipe, faucet etc.) and you will get a shock.

[COLOR="DarkRed"] maybe something to do with the grounding of the motor???[/COLOR]
Not sure why you mention the motor, did you do something to it?
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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