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My dryer stopped heating all together. Repair guy said motor was dragging. I replaced motor, drive belt, drum support rollers,

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Old 09-02-2009, 08:44 AM
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Default Dryer overheats after all thermostats replaced
Model Number: LE6800XTW0   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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My dryer stopped heating all together. Repair guy said motor was dragging. I replaced motor, drive belt, drum support rollers, high limit
hermostat, blower housing thermostat, thermal cut off.
Dryer now heats but won't regulate, just runs full hot until it cuts off. Doesn't matter what setting I put the temperature at. The exhaust vent seems to be putting out plenty of air.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 09-02-2009, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana-T View Post
My dryer stopped heating all together. Repair guy said motor was dragging. I replaced motor, drive belt, drum support rollers, high limit
hermostat, blower housing thermostat, thermal cut off.
Dryer now heats but won't regulate, just runs full hot until it cuts off. Doesn't matter what setting I put the temperature at. The exhaust vent seems to be putting out plenty of air.
I see now there is a theramostat AP3134945 that I did not replace yet. This is a black plastic flat base that goes under the cycling thermostat. Would this be a possible reason??? or should I be looking at the temperature switch?
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Old 09-03-2009, 04:02 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LE6800XTW0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Yes, this could cause your problem

It is actually mis-named, it is a heater not a thermostat.
When you select different temperatures, it receives different amounts of power. This adds heat to the cycling thermostat therefore causing the units main heater to cycle more often reducing the dryer temperature.

It should measure 7,000 ohms approximately.

Here is a service manual am not sure if it covers your model but your's should be close.
See Page 25
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Servic...LE/4322260.pdf
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Old 09-09-2009, 08:01 AM
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Default Dryer overheats cont.

OK, I replaced this heater but problem persist. Dryer runs hot for about 10 minutes then shuts off for several minutes then restarts. Smells hot. Doesn't matter if I use auto or timer control or what temp selection.
My dryer does not have a control board.
Could the temp selection switch be responsibile? I have replaced all thermostats, the heater switch (below the fan housing thermostat), cut off switches. Could one of the thermostats I replaced still be defective?
Also, I seem to be getting plenty of air flow out the exhaust pipe but don't have any way to quantify it.
I have invested so much into parts and shipping now I hate to give up but am wondering when to fold.


Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LE6800XTW0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Yes, this could cause your problem

It is actually mis-named, it is a heater not a thermostat.
When you select different temperatures, it receives different amounts of power. This adds heat to the cycling thermostat therefore causing the units main heater to cycle more often reducing the dryer temperature.

It should measure 7,000 ohms approximately.

Here is a service manual am not sure if it covers your model but your's should be close.
See Page 25
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Servic...LE/4322260.pdf
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2009, 08:30 AM
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I doubt it would be the temp selector switch as the cycling thermostat should still control the temperature if the temp selector is bad.

It is possible that you have a grounded heating element.
This can cause the heater to run uncontrolled.
Pull it and check to be sure that the element is not touching the case.
One way to check it is to unplug the unit, pull both wires from the heater, then check the heater for resistance should be around 10 ohms. Then check each connector to the case, should be infinite.

Another possibility would be an air leak. You are actually sucking the hot air through the drum and pushing it out the exhaust. The cycling thermostat is on the blower so if there is a large air leak between the drum and the blower it will suck in room air and not see the actual hot air temperature causing the heater to run continuously.

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Last edited by denman : 09-10-2009 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 09-10-2009, 09:54 AM
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Default Dryer overheating cont.

Great, thanks for the suggestions. It may be possible that I didn't get the drum seal back on right when I replaced the motor. The drum does make some banging noise when I first start it up but then evens out. I will also check the heater as suggested.

Dana

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
I doubt it would be the temp selector switch as the cycling thermostat should still control the temperature if the temp selector is bad.

It is possible that you have a grounded heating element.
This can cause the heater to run uncontrolled.
Pull it and check to be sure that the element is not touching the case.
One way to check it is to unplug the unit, pull both wires from the heater, then check the heater for resistance should be around 10 ohms. Then check each connector to the case, should be infinite.

Another possibility would be an air leak. You are actually sucking the hot air through the drum and pushing it out the exhaust. The cycling thermostat is on the blower so if there is a large air leak between the drum and the blower it will suck in room air and not see the actual hot air temperature causing the heater to run continuously.

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Old 09-11-2009, 04:34 PM
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I think I may have the motor wired incorrectly. What is happening is it will begin drying clothes fine but as the clothes become dryer and the temperature increases the whole dryer shuts off for a minute or two. I appears instead of shutting off the heater coil it is shutting down the motor. It will then restart and shut down again in a few minutes, getting shorter and shorter between cycles.

the motor I put in (Part number: 279827

Part number: 279827
) had a slightly different wiring block. I have everything as indicated on the new instructions but really question if it is correct. I am not sure how to read the wiring diagram to verify the connections.
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:22 PM
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There is a thermal protection thermostat built into the motor, it sounds like this is what is tripping.
This will shut the unit off but you should have to restart it by pushing the start switch..

Unfortunately I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit, hopefully someone else will jump in with some help. The below is just general info.

Here is a good site with some dryer repair help.
http://www.applianceaid.com/whirlpool-dryers.html

The way most units work is that when you push the start switch power is applied to the start and run windings in the motor. The motor has 2 centrifugal switches which close once the motor is close to operating speed.
One of the switches, switches in the heating coil. This ensures that the heater only runs when there is air flowing.
The other switch, switches out the start winding so that you run on only the run winding.

Note that if the start winding is not switched off the motor will overheat and trip it's internal thermal protect.

I am not sure what would happen if the start winding and run winding wires were reversed. The motor would start but I am unsure if the start winding could keep the motor running on it's own.

Another possibility might be excessive drag on the motor causing it to overheat. Try rotating the drum by hand in the correct direction, it should rotate fairly easily.
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dana-T View Post
My dryer stopped heating all together. Repair guy said motor was dragging. I replaced motor, drive belt, drum support rollers, high limit
hermostat, blower housing thermostat, thermal cut off.
Dryer now heats but won't regulate, just runs full hot until it cuts off. Doesn't matter what setting I put the temperature at. The exhaust vent seems to be putting out plenty of air.
I've had many cases where it "seemed to be" only to find out that it really
wasn't. If you are running plastic flexible vent, get rid of it and replace it
with aluminum. Check the vent hood, if its one that has a flap which
only opens a couple of inches then replace it with something else.
Next, you need to check the lint filter housing (or bulkhead).
This is number 1 on the pic below. You will need to remove the screws
holding it place so that you can separate it from the blower wheel
housing (number 11 on pic below). There’s a good chance the thing
is loaded with lint (especially at the bottom) give the inside of it a
good cleaning.
Next, since lots of parts have been replaced double check
to make sure that everything replaced has been wired properly.


Good luck

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Old 09-12-2009, 05:28 AM
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When the dryer stops it will re-start by itself within a few minutes. It seems as if it has shut down the motor instead of the heating element. I would imagine that in normal operation the cycling thermostat would turn the heating element on and off as needed. But this seems to be shutting down the motor instead. The cycle becomes shorter as the clothes become dryer which to me would seem consistant with the cycling of the heating coils. When I first start the dryer with wet clothes it will run for 10-15 min. just fine before this starts happening. This indicates to me the start and run wiring would be correct.
There is a wiring diagram on the back of the dryer but I don't know how to read it in relation to the switch wiring on the motor.




Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
There is a thermal protection thermostat built into the motor, it sounds like this is what is tripping.
This will shut the unit off but you should have to restart it by pushing the start switch..

Unfortunately I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit, hopefully someone else will jump in with some help. The below is just general info.

Here is a good site with some dryer repair help.
http://www.applianceaid.com/whirlpool-dryers.html

The way most units work is that when you push the start switch power is applied to the start and run windings in the motor. The motor has 2 centrifugal switches which close once the motor is close to operating speed.
One of the switches, switches in the heating coil. This ensures that the heater only runs when there is air flowing.
The other switch, switches out the start winding so that you run on only the run winding.

Note that if the start winding is not switched off the motor will overheat and trip it's internal thermal protect.

I am not sure what would happen if the start winding and run winding wires were reversed. The motor would start but I am unsure if the start winding could keep the motor running on it's own.

Another possibility might be excessive drag on the motor causing it to overheat. Try rotating the drum by hand in the correct direction, it should rotate fairly easily.
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