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No Heat Coming from my Whirlpool Dryer

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I'm helping a friend repair a Whirlpool dryer. Everything works fine...accept it doesn't heat up. I was told it was

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Old 04-12-2012, 08:58 AM
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Default No Heat Coming from my Whirlpool Dryer
Model Number: TEXX640JQ1   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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I'm helping a friend repair a Whirlpool dryer. Everything works fine...accept it doesn't heat up. I was told it was probably the Heating Element. So, I bought and replaced the Heating Element on the Dryer. No dice. My next thought was to replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat, but before I do that, I wonder if someone who knows more than me could possibly provide me with a way to properly diagnose my problem so I don't continue to buy parts I don't need. What are the most common issues I could be running into. I've thoroughly examined the wiring, the Thermostat, and the new Heating Element, and they look good. Albeit I would have no way of telling if the Thermostat had gone out. I wouldn't know what to look for. Help? Would love to get this thing running.


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2012, 09:48 AM
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Hi.

I'd love to help you, post the correct model number.

Simon.
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Old 04-12-2012, 02:52 PM
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TEDX640JQ1. I think I had an X where the D is.
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Old 04-12-2012, 03:24 PM
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Hi.

Firs of all check if there is 240VAC at the terminal block.
No voltage - check the circuit breaker and wall outlet.

If you are getting 240v, remove the rear panel and check (using the multimeter) continuity at thermal cut-off and hi-limit thermostat.

The cut-off kit Part number: AP3094244

Part number: AP3094244


Make sure that the dryer vent (inside and out) clean.

Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for Estate TEDX640JQ1 DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.com

Thank you. Post the results.

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Old 04-13-2012, 10:01 AM
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Wow. This is excellent. I will try this out and get back to you. Thank you so much for the thorough response.
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Old 04-13-2012, 11:46 AM
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You are most welcome.

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Old 04-21-2012, 04:04 PM
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I don't appear to be getting any voltage at the Hi Limit Thermostat. I will order the replacement part and see if that fixes the issue.
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:10 PM
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I have nearly replaced the Hi Limit Thermostat. The new thermostat is different from the old one though and there is a wire that has no connecting terminal now. The installation instructions has a note on how to handle this. I am not an electrician so I am not sure how to proceed. Hoping you can help. Here is the note:

"If there is a 3/16" terminal connected to the old direct connect thermostat then one end of the jumper wire must be cut off and the male/female combination terminal crimped into place. Then, the male/female combination must be attached to the thermostat. The 3/16" female terminate must also be cut off of the wire harness and the 1/4" female terminal crimped onto the wire. Then that wire must be attached to the male/female combination terminal."

Included with the thermostat were three spare parts. A red wire with a white stripe (looks similar to the jumper wire), a gold terminal connector and a smaller silver terminal connector that appear to need to be connect to one or more wires. I have no idea what to do here. I hope this message is clear. I work well with pictures, but there were no diagrams to outline this step. Any help is much appreciated.

Thanks,
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:00 PM
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Hey Simon. I just wanted to follow up on my post to see if you had any advice. I'm at a loss right now. I have a good idea of what to do, I just don't want to cause any problems. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
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Old 05-14-2012, 07:20 PM
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Just to add my 2 cents...

Quote:
Originally Posted by gaidin112 View Post
...I don't appear to be getting any voltage at the Hi Limit Thermostat...
I'm wandering why did you check for voltage while Simon recommended to check this part for continuity?

I'm afraid that you instead of performing step-by-step troubleshooting to determine which part exactly is causing the dryer not to heat trying to fix it by guess.

There are six parts involved in the heating process (which all can be tested for continuity) and if you are going to replace all of them, you will end up paying much more than $100.

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