[eyefish]

Hi Gene,
I have A Speed Queen Dryer, model HG6009W, that the gas ignites into a flame only when the dryer is cold.
When you start it up; everything works fine, for about a minute, then the flame shuts off, & the gas valve will no longer supply gas for it to re-ignite.
The igniter heats up to bright white hot, but no gas to lite up. (until you let the dryer sit a few hrs to cool off)
I tried jumping the t-stat, (@ 2 o'clock of 3" flame tube) but that didn't help.
I DIDN'T try jumping the flame sensor AP2910747 (should I?)
Or is it simply definitely the Coil Kit AP79737
I've checked the exhaust....all clean & clear.
I tried running the dryerwith the hxhaust hose removed at the back.
You've been a huge help to me in the past on a Microwave (I'm the Volvo Technician)
I hope you can help me this time.
The coil kit is expensive, & I wouldn't want to buy it unless it was defilitely the offending part.
Any way to test it with checking resistance?
Thanks,
Al

[SublimeMasterJW]

If one of them coils overheats (and they do) then they will become intermittant. Feel em after a failure occurs and you will tell quickly. Here is a great page with pix.

BONUS INFO: More gas dryer englightenment

[eyefish]

Thanks very much.
I had JUST ordered a coil kit just before reading your reply!
Al

[eyefish]

Well....I just replaced the complete Coil Kit, with Whirlpool part number 279137, & now it does *NOT* work at all. (at least before it worked initially after the dryer sat for a few hours)
What I get now is the igniter comes on & glows bright white, & then a nice loud click at the gas valve, & no gas.
(yes...I turned the gas back on. I even re-loosened up the 2 coil packs to bleed the air out a bit)
(The instruction sheet that came with the new coil kit say some jiberish about removing the 2 level coil wires (black or brown) from the original plug, & connecting one of the leads to the top slot of the jumper harness. And the 2nd lead to be spliced into the black lead of the new coil.
This applies to a solenoid controlled 2-level valve application.
But my application doesn't seem to need all that.
The coil kit I purchased seems to be a direct fit assembly exactly like the one I removed.
Please help.
Now I'm in the hole for the coil kit I bought & I still have a non working dryer.
Thanks,
Al

[eyefish]

Very Strange.
I re-installed the original coil kit.
I'm back to where I was earlier.....it fires up after the dryer has sat around for a few hrs.
And after about 30 seconds or so....the flame goes out, & will not come back on, although the igniter glows every 30 seconds calling for flame to come back on.
And there is NO click at the gas valve.
It all works again after the dryer has sat for a few hrs, & then repeats the scenario all over again.....shuts off & won't re-lite.
MY guess now is that there is something worng with the new coil kit.
And only one of the coils in the old coil pack is bad.
Sheesh...I wish I knew what was happening for certain.
I checked ALL the sensors, (flame sensor, T-stats) & they all show Zero Ohms, even when it won't re-ignite.
Any help?

Al

[SublimeMasterJW]

Make sure them connections are snapped all the way in. The dryer is gonna cycle this is normal. The flames do NOT stay on constantly. You need to put the machine back together for it to work right also. Manual

[eyefish]

Thanks for the reply SublimemasterJW.
I'm chasing ghosts here.
Yes, maybe one of the factory 'crimps' on the one ended butt connectors may be screwed up....maybe they didn't strip one of the wires completely.
But if I start screwing with the factory crimps...I have no recourse on a possible return of the new (non working) coil kit.
I'm gonna try to return the coil kit tomorrow & tell them it's defective.

However.....maybe you can sort this out.....why when I put back in the original one (the one that fired gas flame for only 30 seconds out of 20 minutes & clothes didn't dry) it went back to firing flame for 30 seconds?
And the new one that I had to take back out clicked the valve, but didn't fire gas flame at all.....ever.

Do you still think one of the coils is bad on the original one, & at least one of the coils isn't working on the NEW one?
These are 3 individual 2 wire coils.
Can they be checked for resistance values if I open up the factory wire crimps?
What should those resistance values be?
Thanks,

Al

[SublimeMasterJW]

On them 2 coils stacked on top of each other. You might have them stacked wrong. Seen it.

[eyefish]

Hmmmmmm....I'll bet you're right!
Because I hear the 'click', but the coil isn't opening the plunger on the gas valve!!! I'll bet that's it! (because if it's stacked wrong...the coil that is supposed to pusk the gas plunger is too far away from the plunger & can't push it!)
Problem is: I returned the part already, feeling that it was defective, & I now have to order another one...this time I'm ordering it online.
Damn! I just returned that part a half hour ago. Wish I read your post 1st.
Anyway.....if it was stacked wrong.....it was from the factory because they came 'pre-stacked' in the package.
I know what to look for on the new one when I get it.
Thanks,
Al

[eyefish]

SublimemasterJW,
I'll report back to you when I get the "NEW" Coil Kit which I ordered today.
Thanks for your help.
BTW: in case the new coil kit doesn't cure the problem, although I believe it will....what are those 2 little items on the blower exhaust box each with 3 wires on them, that look like t-stats? (I've seen them called fuses)
Could they have any bearing on this?
Al