[ayersl]

My electric dryer stopped heating. I have checked & double checked continuity on the heating coils, both thermal fuses, hi-limit thermostat, and the thermostat with five lugs (I get continuty on the opposite end lower lugs). All check out ok. What else could it be? I checked the outlet and have 240v across the two side lugs, 120v between others. It appears that the heating system is not getting power. Could it be a moisture sensor, conrol knob, or what????? HELP! BTW, I get 0 ohms across the lheating element leads, and I have disconnected one side of all things before I measure.

[sidfink43]

To test for continuity and resistance you need to disconnect both lead and use the meter to make a complete circuit. You should have 10 to 20ohms in your heating element.

Test again and let us know what you find out.

[ayersl]

The problem seemed to be that the circuit wasn't getting any power; I checked power at outlet, it was good. I finally opened the terminal block access & found that the light blue wire attached to L2 (red wire form outlet) had separated from the mounting lug and was just hanging. Turns out the nut holding it down was loose & the loose connection melted the solder at the wire where it connected to the lug. I installed a new lug to the wire, tightened all connections & the dryer works fine! I'm just glad it didn't result in a fire or other calamity! Thanks for your help; I learned a lot about how this dryer works (too much!).

[kit58105]

my dryer runs fine but no heat. I think I have the same type of problem. I think its the cycling thermostat. the two small lugs are the bias heater. the one lug and the lower lug on the one end are connected, until heating. I assume the upper lug should connect when it clicks and disconnect the lower, but mine does not.
it is bad? all my fuses and element are ok, post this thermostat.

[magician59]

Kit58105: post your model number.

You're correct about the bias heater lugs. The way the thermostat works is that it has continuity between the two larger lugs, so that electricity can flow through it to the heating element. When a certain desired temperature is reached, however, the click you hear is the bimetal contact bending away from one of the lugs, breaking the electron flow to the element. In normal operation, as the thermostat cools, it clicks back into its normally closed position, again allowing electron flow. Check it when it's cool by separating it from its wires, and checking across the two larger lugs for continuity.

[kit58105]

sorry MDE6460ayw.
when you say larger lugs, there are 3 of the same size
1 at one end and 2 at the other. it seems that if that is for the heating element it should not be the problem. because if it's closed the element should work. so maybe temp switch?

[magician59]

Your dryer has three thermostats: The cycling thermostat, located on the blower housing Part number: AP4038076

It has the bias heater discussed above. The hi-limit thermostat (the one with the three wires) is located on the heater housing. Measure resistance across the single and the top of the double terminals Part number: AP4036890

Then the thermal fuse. If it's blown, the motor won't even run. Part number: AP4043259

.

[kit58105]

I have the one with 5 lugs..2 for the bias heater, and 3 other lugs. the others test fine at room temp.
the 5 lug thermostat has 2 connected at room temp, that disconnect upon heating and there is no continuity between any of the 3 that are not the bias heater