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Whirlpool Electric Dryer doesn't start until timer reaches cool down cycle

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I set the timer on the AutoSensor and push the start button. I can hear the selenoid click and the

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Old 08-19-2009, 09:48 PM
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Unhappy Whirlpool Electric Dryer doesn't start until timer reaches cool down cycle
Model Number: LEQ8000HQU   Brand: Whirlpool   Age: More than 10 years   

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I set the timer on the AutoSensor and push the start button. I can hear the selenoid click and the timer starts running, the dryer doesn't. If I leave the timer alone, when it reaches the cool down cycle, the drum starts and when the cycle completes it turns off as expected. I have set the temp to the lowest setting with the same results. If I turn the timer to the cool down manually, the dryer will not start when the button is pushed. I checked both of the thermal fuses and they test closed. Should I test them with their wires removed?(Out of the circuit) I replace the starter push button with the same result. Could this be the timer switch?
I don't want to just replace parts until I stumble upon the fix.

Please Help


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2009, 06:50 AM
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Well, I understand your wanting to be more certain before replacing parts. There are a number of possibilities including the starter and the relay through the motor so lets try to narrow things down. Try the following basic tests just to rule things out.

1. Test the thermal fuse, safety thermostats and bias thermostat for continuity. Yes, disconnect them before putting the meter on them.

2. Operate the dryer in Timed Mode and see how it works.

3. Test the heating element for resistance (12 to 20 ohms) and inspect it to make sure it is not grounded.

Let us know what you find out and we will go from there.
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Old 08-25-2009, 09:27 PM
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1. I pulled the wires from the fuses and thermostats I found on the schematic(In control stand, top of dryer) I also tested for resistance in the thermostat heater: within tolerance. All the fuses and T'stats tested closed.
2. On the "Timed Mode" the timer ran, the dryer didn't run until the timer reached the cool-down cycle.
3. The heating element tested at 10.4 ohms. According to the cartoon, it is a 5400w heater and should show 7.8 to 11.8 ohms.
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Old 08-26-2009, 10:47 AM
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Thanks for the new information.

I think all of the info so far leads to the conclusion that the timer should be replaced. Unfortunately, there is no way to know for certain unless you do replace it, but I think it is a reasonable risk to take.

Good luck, let us know what you do and how it turns out.
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:17 PM
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One more thing I remembered. When I put my ear close to the old timer. It didn't sound right. It sounded as though it was under a strain and the gears were dry. I didn't realize it was a sign of failure, until I tried to listen to the new timer and there was nothing but a steady hum.

noclaf1

Last edited by noclaf1 : 09-02-2009 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:26 PM
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Sorry,
I just posted what I did and lost it. oops :-)
1. Dryer Unplugged
2. Removed the back cover of console
3. Removed timer with the wires still attached
4. Transfered wires one at a time
5. Installed the new timer
6. Replaced all safety covers
7. Plugged the dryer in and it worked.
The old timer rattled when it was shaken

Thanks again for your help

noclaf1
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Old 09-03-2009, 08:28 AM
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Great, nice going and thanks for updating us.
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