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About 6 months ago dryer would heat for a minute or so and flame would go out. I found a

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Old 08-19-2009, 10:09 AM
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Default Gas dryer tumbles with air but no heat
Model Number: KGYS750GQ1   Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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About 6 months ago dryer would heat for a minute or so and flame would go out.
I found a pretty massive lint clog inside the exhaust box and cleaned thoroughly. Problem solved. Today, dryer tumbles with only air. Observed igniter did not begin to glow and would like to know if most likely problem is the thermal fuse, flame sensor or something relatively inexpensive and which I would be happy to try replacing both before calling for a repair or consider buying a new one. I read one forum comment about a similar problem which it talked about testing componentx with for continuity, etc. I don't have a meter and would like to try replacing the above parts if the odds are good that this would solve the problem. Appreciate any help. Thanks


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2009, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry III View Post
About 6 months ago dryer would heat for a minute or so and flame would go out.
I found a pretty massive lint clog inside the exhaust box and cleaned thoroughly. Problem solved. Today, dryer tumbles with only air. Observed igniter did not begin to glow and would like to know if most likely problem is the thermal fuse, flame sensor or something relatively inexpensive and which I would be happy to try replacing both before calling for a repair or consider buying a new one. I read one forum comment about a similar problem which it talked about testing componentx with for continuity, etc. I don't have a meter and would like to try replacing the above parts if the odds are good that this would solve the problem. Appreciate any help. Thanks
I can understand you wanting to make the repair on your own, but without a meter it's going to be tough determining which of the many parts involved is bad. There are a number of items in that circuit that can cause the ignitor to not glow. Can't rule out the ignitor itself, look at it closely to see if it appears broken. Considering the vent was clogged, there's a good chance the thermal fuse may have popped. To test that, you can temporairily bypass it by hooking the two wires together and see if the ignitor comes on. Do not leave it that way. Be sure to unplug the machine prior to bypassing.

Below is a picture of the thermal fuse, it's attached to the blower housing.

Part number: AP3132867

Part number: AP3132867
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank / APP Team View Post
I can understand you wanting to make the repair on your own, but without a meter it's going to be tough determining which of the many parts involved is bad. There are a number of items in that circuit that can cause the ignitor to not glow. Can't rule out the ignitor itself, look at it closely to see if it appears broken. Considering the vent was clogged, there's a good chance the thermal fuse may have popped. To test that, you can temporairily bypass it by hooking the two wires together and see if the ignitor comes on. Do not leave it that way. Be sure to unplug the machine prior to bypassing.

Below is a picture of the thermal fuse, it's attached to the blower housing.

Part number: AP3132867

Part number: AP3132867
Thank you Frank. I will dismantle dryer for access to the ignitor and fuse, which I would have to do for replacing the fuse. If ignitor is broken and I decide to replace, should I also replace the any other "inexpensive" components, and is it likely that a broken ignitor is the problem and gas valve coils would be ok? Harry
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Old 08-19-2009, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Harry III View Post
Thank you Frank. I will dismantle dryer for access to the ignitor and fuse, which I would have to do for replacing the fuse. If ignitor is broken and I decide to replace, should I also replace the any other "inexpensive" components, and is it likely that a broken ignitor is the problem and gas valve coils would be ok? Harry
The coils are probably ok. Unless the ignitor lights the coils aren't going to come into play. As far as replacing other items, that's really going to be your call. I can name all the components that come into play, but I'd hate to see you buy things you don't need.
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Old 08-20-2009, 07:09 AM
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Thank you Frank. I will dismantle dryer for access to the ignitor and fuse, which I would have to do for replacing the fuse. If ignitor is broken and I decide to replace, should I also replace the any other "inexpensive" components, and is it likely that a broken ignitor is the problem and gas valve coils would be ok? Harry
Thanks again. You're right and I will let you know what I find. If ignitor is not broken, I will bypass fuse as suggested and see ignitor glows and allows for heat. If so, will order thermal fuse (if this works) and assume rest of components are ok. Will pass this information back to you and maybe it will help others. Harry
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Old 08-21-2009, 11:00 AM
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Thanks again. You're right and I will let you know what I find. If ignitor is not broken, I will bypass fuse as suggested and see ignitor glows and allows for heat. If so, will order thermal fuse (if this works) and assume rest of components are ok. Will pass this information back to you and maybe it will help others. Harry
Frank, I have access to thermal fuse and can bypass to test ignitor, but the gas line is detached. Can I still start dryer to see if ignitor starts to glow and turn off right away if it does without gas or damage to ignitor or other problem by starting it for a quick look? Also, if it is not fuse, what is my next component to check (two are close to the fuse that look like small black solinoids)? Thanks, Harry
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Old 08-21-2009, 11:42 AM
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Frank, I have access to thermal fuse and can bypass to test ignitor, but the gas line is detached. Can I still start dryer to see if ignitor starts to glow and turn off right away if it does without gas or damage to ignitor or other problem by starting it for a quick look? Also, if it is not fuse, what is my next component to check (two are close to the fuse that look like small black solinoids)? Thanks, Harry

It's ok to turn on to see if it starts to glow. Make sure the wires aren't touching anything. If you still have the drum in with belt installed be careful of moving parts. If it starts to glow, go ahead and stop it, and button the unit up. I'm sure the problem is resolved. If I remember correctly you had found a lint build up in the vent, and that can cause the thermal to pop.

If that doesn't resolve the issue you will need a meter to start making some checks.
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Old 08-23-2009, 07:26 AM
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It's ok to turn on to see if it starts to glow. Make sure the wires aren't touching anything. If you still have the drum in with belt installed be careful of moving parts. If it starts to glow, go ahead and stop it, and button the unit up. I'm sure the problem is resolved. If I remember correctly you had found a lint build up in the vent, and that can cause the thermal to pop.

If that doesn't resolve the issue you will need a meter to start making some checks.
Frank, I bypassed the thermal fuse and ignitor glowed, so I'm back in business after installing new fuse. This forum allows the home owner to tackle an appliance problem and have the satisfaction of diy repairs. Thanks a million. Harry
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