Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/31/2012(UTC) Posts: 3
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I have a Bosch WTL5410-Dryer that stopped drying clothes. I took it all apart to inspect heating coils and such. The coils themselves look fine, as do all the wiring and connections. I hit the reset button on the hi-thermo to no avail. I then replaced the regular thermostat to no avail as well. I unmounted the heater box and set it aside to watch the coils as the dryer is in operation. I noticed that there are 2 sets of coils (4 coils) and the back two heat up for an interval of time until the motor switches the drum direction, then the two coils stop heating. At this point I am assuming that the other two should start heating up...but they do not. An another interval of time will elapse and the motor will switch directions once again and the initial two coils start heating up again. Should I replace the hi-thermo switch? Im not too sure what is going on here.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/31/2012(UTC) Posts: 3
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I really hope someone can help me with some insight into this problem.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/31/2012(UTC) Posts: 3
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Alright, well,.... I replaced the hi-limit thermostat and it did not resolve the problem. I think I will just replace the entire heater in case the coils are bad and I cannot detect it. Any ideas?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/13/2012(UTC) Posts: 4
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Hello Aalbarez,
I have a problem with my dry too but its not a front loader and I am waiting on a response too. When you are testing the unit have you tried various settings and if there is a setting for sanitizing or something that would make it run at the highest temp. I know most dryers are to run efficiently on power and conserve and what can be happening is that its not cycling for the hi-temp which could be a cycling thermostat in some cases. Unforntunately I am also a DIY guy too and dont know all that much.
To confirm its not your coils then I would (1st) unplug the dryer from the wall, (2nd) take pictures of the heating element so you know what wires go where, (3rd) disconnet the coil wires. (4th) then ohm out the coils to check for a break in the coils and visually inspect them for any breaks. If you find no breaks and your meter ohms out (i do audible ohm testing for continuous continuity with one on each side). If you dont know what I am talking about then visit Youtube and they have ton of videos on testing. That will eliminate if its the coils. Then if they are good I would move up the wires not kicking on and go from there.
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