[kelsoz]

I'm working on a friend's circa 1987 Whirlpool MOD NO. LE5650XMWO (STK NO. LE5650M, SER NO. M74670298) electric dryer (27") that won't heat. All other aspects seem OK - drum turns, timer functions, buzzer buzzes. I can find no manual specific to this unit, but the back end looks like many others I see on you-tube repair videos.

I have checked power to the terminal block, and checked all the thermal devices at room temp. Here are some results:

Ground to L1 and L2 - 120VAC
L1 to L2 - 240VDC
Thermal Fuse - 0 ohm and no short
Cycling Thermostat small wire terminals - 0 ohm and no short
Cycling Thermostat large wire terminals - 3300 ohm and no short
High Limit Thermostat - 0 ohms and no short
Heating element terminals - 10 ohms and no short
Voltage across heating elements when running - 0.

Two things seem not quite right.

First, all diagrams, photos, videos I've seen show a thermal device I don't seem to have - "The Thermal Cutout" located at the upper end of the heat box. I have no component there, and I can find nothing like it anywhere on the machine. So either this unit does not have a Thermal Cutout, or mine is hidden somewhere. Can anyone speak authoritatively to this?

Second, my 3300 ohm resistance measurement of the Cycling Thermostat large wire terminals does not compare with the expected value for specs of different, but similar units of 6900 ohm. Again, any insight to this?

I'd appreciate any help on the two issues above, or anything else that I should look at. Control/Timer? Also, help with manual or schematic specific for this unit.

I'd sure like to get this old thing running for a few more years.

Thanks

[ApplianceJunk]

First, all diagrams, photos, videos I've seen show a thermal device I don't seem to have - "The Thermal Cutout" located at the upper end of the heat box.

As I recall older models did not have the one located up higher. I don't see it listed on the diagram for your model.

Second, my 3300 ohm resistance measurement of the Cycling Thermostat large wire terminals does not compare with the expected value for specs of different, but similar units of 6900 ohm. Again, any insight to this?

Did you remove the wires before you checked it for continuity with your meter?
Is this a adjustable thermostat?

Also, help with manual or schematic specific for this unit.

Could not locate a tech sheet for your model, but here are some older service manuals you may find helpful.

http://appliancejunk.com/forums/inde...=view;down=125

http://appliancejunk.com/forums/inde...=view;down=128

You could have a problem with a timer contact of the switch on the motor too.

[kelsoz]

Thanks for response. Sorry I don't get the "quote" system here.

As I recall older models did not have the one located up higher. I don't see it listed on the diagram for your model.

Good to know.

Did you remove the wires before you checked it for continuity with your meter?

Yes.

Is this a adjustable thermostat?

No.

Could not locate a tech sheet for your model, but here are some older service manuals you may find helpful.

Thanks. These are still newer than mine, but will be good to look at.

So, If I'm getting 240 at the terminal block, and zero at the heater, and all the thermal devices are OK (still fuzzy on the cycling thermostat resistance), is there a methodical way I can find the culprit?

[kelsoz]

It turns out one of the manuals looks just like my unit. It's designated "L-58". BUT - It clearly depicts and labels the "Thermal Cutoff", which, as I stated in the OP, does not exist on my unit.

So that is still a mystery.

[kelsoz]

Any help on this?

[ApplianceJunk]

You could have a problem with a timer contact of the switch on the motor too.

It's something I would trace down with a multimeter. Even if you don't have a wiring diagram you can start at the heating element and trace it back with the meter to see why your not getting voltage to the element. It's just some basic troubleshooting. Without the knowledge of how to use a multimeter and some basic troubleshooting skills you will just have to guess.

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for Whirlpool LE5650XMW0 Residential Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

I do not think your unit has a thermal cut-off.
If you look at the parts above there is not one but if you look at a parts breakdown for a LE5650XMW2, there is one.
Looks like they added one to later revisions of this series.

Have you checked in the control console to see if the wiring diagram is stored there?

See the attachment for a wiring diagram, note that it is for a MW2.

I will have to assume that the MW0 is the same as the MW2 but does not have the thermal cutoff. Hopefully this is correct.

Attach/tape one meter lead to L1 at the line cord and leave it there.
Set the unit to mid-scale, high heat.
Use your most sensitive meter scale.
Now work your way back through the heater circuit.
If you get all the way back to the heater element (left side on the wiring diagram and have 0 ohms and there is 10 ohms on the right side of the element then odds are either a bad connection to/at the centrifugal switch or a bad switch.

Also seems to be another problem with the info as the parts show a separate cycling thermostat and thermostat heater and your post indicates that it is a single part.
If you look at the MW2 it uses a single thermostat/heater.

Also I find it strange that you said:
Cycling Thermostat small wire terminals - 0 ohm and no short
Cycling Thermostat large wire terminals - 3300 ohm and no short
Usually the larger terminals take the main heating coil connections (larger red wires) and the internal heater is the smaller connections in the center (smaller wires).

[kelsoz]

Thanks guys. I'll be going to the machine tomorrow and I'll look into some of this.

One little thing I should have mentioned - When I first started looking at this, and after I had run it for a bit, I noticed that the L1 and L2 wires from the power cord were switched. Not knowing if this was a big deal, I went ahead and swapped them. No noticeable change in performance. Would that have any effect, both generally, and specifically in my situation?

Thanks

[denman]

Would that have any effect, both generally, and specifically in my situation?
It should not make a difference.