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Tested a components and found that the thermal cutoff had no continuity. Ordered a new thermal cutoff and replaced it when it came in. Also made sure that the discharge hose was clean and free of any restrictions. Before I put the rear cover on, I plugged it in and tested it and it was heating up fine. reassembled it but later my wife said that when she went to use it it did not heat up, just like before. Tested all of the components again and once again found that the new thermal cutoff does not have continuity. I can jump the wires @ the thermal cutoff and the heater works. Am I missing something? Did I ruin a new part? Or is it likely that the part I got is bad?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Here are your parts. Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LEN1000PQ1 29"ELECTRIC DRYER | AppliancePartsPros.comBelow is my standard blurb on blown thermal cut-offs. Check the heating coil. Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil. Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms. Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows. The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off.. Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device. Just in case it is not a grounded element. With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced. Check that the belt is OK. Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot. Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow. Check/clean your vent system. Check/clean the blower wheel. If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut) |
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/1/2008(UTC)
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The reason that thermal fuse went out again, is because the dryer is getting too hot!!! So if you feel that the vent to the outside is clear, then what I experience all the time is you need to replace the Internal Bias thermostat. It is located on the blower housing. It is the one that has 4 wires coming to it. The part # is 3387134. What I also do for a little insurance is take off the vent housing, and make sure it is clean too. How you do that is... Pull the lint filter out, and then take the 2 phillip head screws out, and then go to the back of the dryer, and there will be 4 screws holding the vent housing in place. Remove them, and then pull the whole vent housing out from the rear, and clean it. If you need more room to take the vent housing out, pop the top up on the dryer, and that will do it. Tom ApplianceEducator.com
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