Just to be sure you are checking resistance correctly. When you check the parts, you have to pull 1 wire off to check continuity. That way you are not reading a false resistance. Since you already have taken the element out, and replaced it, that leave the 2 thermostats, and the thermal fuse on the top left side of the heater housing. If they check good, then the only other things it could be is the motor switch on the motor, or the heat selector swotch. One thing I do want to say is you need to check the voltage to the dryer, where the cord come's into the back of the dryer. Just because the dryer runs, does not mean it has the full amount of voltage. There are three terminals in the back where the cord hooks up to. check from the far right to the far left, and you should get 240 volts. Check from the far left to the middle, and you should get 120 volts. Check from the far right to the middle, and you should get 120 volts. I hope this helps you. Tom Appliance Educator, Appliance Parts, Washer and Dryer Parts, Refridgerator and Freezer Parts, Stove and Oven Parts

If you have the timer I am thinking of, take the back off the control panel, and make sure the dryer is unplugged. You will see a black wire on the timer, and a red wire on ther next terminal next to it. Take the red wire off the timer, and just turn the dryer timer to a timed dry heat cycle, and then put your meter on ohms, and check accross the black wire to the terminal, that you pulled off the red wire. If you get continuity the timer is good, if not the timer is your problem. Tom ApplianceEducator.com