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Maytag Electric Dryer Won't Start

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Any ideas why the dryer won't start when I press the start button? No humming, lights on the sensor works,

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-06-2012, 03:50 PM
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Default Maytag Electric Dryer Won't Start
Model Number: SDE4606AYW   Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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Any ideas why the dryer won't start when I press the start button? No humming, lights on the sensor works, inside lights work... just won't even jump. Before it went out, I forced the timer to stop the dryer after running. Could that have been an issue that it stopped too suddenly? Although I have done that in the past, and no problems. I did smell a slight burning smell that I didn't realize was possibly connected to the dryer until I tried starting it again later that day. Any ideas? Fuses are not tripped and plug is good and nothing is plugged. Thank you for your help in advance.


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Amana SDI22A REF - SXS/I&W
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Amana SDI22N-1-A REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22N-1-A REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22N-1-AG REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22N-1-AG REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22N-1-AG REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22N-1-AG REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22N-1-C REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22N-1-C REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22N-1-C REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22N-1-C REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22N-A REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22N-AG REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22N-C REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22W REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22W REF - SXS/I&W
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Amana SDI22W-A REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22W-AG REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22W-AG REF - SXS/I&W
Amana SDI22W-AG REF - SXS/I&W
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-16-2012, 06:17 AM
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Help someone?? I can't believe noone has replied yet!
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2012, 03:18 AM
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG SDE4606AYW DRYER- ELE | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

And here is a service manual
16023020 Maytag Amana Home Laundry Dryer Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com
You have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer.


Try turning your breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without tripping the breaker.

If this does nothing unplug the unit set it to timed dry mid scale, air fluff or whatever they call the air only cycle and the door closed.
Measure from L1 to Neutral. When you push the push to start switch the resistance should drop to a couple ohms (the motor windings).

If it does you probably have a power problem.

If it does not then the thermal fuse (Item 4 in Section 6) is probably blown.
Check it for resistance, should be 0 ohms.
If blown you have to find out why.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow.
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.
So if the heating coil is OK then I would also replace the hi-limit.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check/clean your vent system. Also make sure that the louvers on the outside vent open fully.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut).

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf SDE4606.pdf (421.2 KB, 16 views)
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-17-2012, 05:29 AM
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Let me make it simple for you. unplug the dryer, and take the bottom front control panel off. Then, lay down on your stomach, and on the back left hand corner on the inside of the dryer is the element housing. There are 2 parts on the housing. One sits up off of the element, and one sits flush. The one that sits up off the element is the thermal fuse. That will most likely be your issue. The part # is 40113801. If you have a meter, ohm it out. If you don't, take the the 2 wires off of it, and put the two terminal ends of the wires together, and put some tape around it, to cover the terminal, so they don't hit metal, and then plug the dryer in and see if it runs. If so, do not run the dryer to dry the clothes with the thermal fuse jumped out. Once you get in running, check the vent to the outside, it is most likely clogged up. That is usually why, the thermal fuse goes out. Tom ********************************************
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