Here are your parts
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE GLEQ2152ES0 Frigidaire/dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a tech sheet. The wiring diagram is more legible than the one with the parts.
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...ebster/134509400efsa.pdf

And here is a service manual.
Frigidaire 27 inch Dryers Gas and Electric Electronic Controls (5995393146) Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com

The "ad" looks like it stands for auto-dry. See page 15 in the manual.

I would check the power first to be sure you have 240 volts going to the dryer.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

Next check the heating element.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around13 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case.

Next check the high-limit thermostat, should be 0 ohms.

Next check the thermistor, should be around 50,000 ohms.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]he said it needed a heating can assembly, top and lower felt,rear bearing kit and a control board, this seems crazy that this would all go out at the same time[/COLOR]
Unless he opened it up and tested things he is just guessing.
The felts are a mechanical thing so you just have to look at them to see their condition.
Same with the rear bearing. Usually they squeal when they are gone but it could be that it is worn allowing it to move around and that screwed up the front felts. If it is OK clean out the old grease and re-lube it using a high temperature grease.
Seems strange that both the control board and heater are shot. There is a possibility that the heating element shorted to the case, drew too much current and welded the heater relay contacts together. Again I am second guessing the service rep and it depends on what tests he did.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]what are your thoughts as now i have plenty of time to fix it since we have a working dryer for the time being or should i just junk it?[/COLOR]
Open it up and take a look.
Without being there I cannot give any really reliable advice on this.
I do agree that if you have to open it up you may as well give it a basic overhaul.

So I checked my high-limit thermostat at .1 or so. Its still good right?

I cant find the issue with my dryer!