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gunworks  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, December 21, 2011 4:03:17 PM(UTC)
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gunworks

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/27/2011(UTC)
Posts: 8

Still need help:

OK, so have done thorough testing and the following applies:

Lint chute and flex pipe and pipe to outside are clean. Check
Blower wheel and housing clean. Check
Incoming wiring harness has 240v and 120v each side. Check
Dryer thermal fuse has good continuity. Check
Dryer cycle thermostat good continuity. Check
Thermal cut-off and hi-limit thermostat good continuity. Check
Heater element has 9.5 ohms resistance and is clean with no breaks and is not shorted to case. Check
Felt seal around drum is in good shape and seals well. Check
No continuity across the hi and low side of the temperature switch? Center position has continuity.

Moving to the Voltage side we have:
Zero volts across the temperature switch while dryer is running at red wires.
Zero volts at the heater element at red wires.
Zero volts across the red and black wires at the control timer while running.

Seems to me a lack of voltage across the control timer wires indicates the control timer has failed. everything else seems to check out with the exception of the control board, which I don't know how to check or what to look for either in resistance or voltage. I have ordered a new temperature switch, but due to it's mechanical function, feel this is not the problem. I am perplexed about the lack of resistance at the switch though. On digital meter it just reads infinity on both the outside settings. (SB under 10,000 on low and over 10000 on high)

Any further items I might have missed? Any and all suggestions welcome.
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ApplianceJunk  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, December 21, 2011 4:09:51 PM(UTC)
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ApplianceJunk

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/24/2007(UTC)
Posts: 2,277

So your dryer runs, but does not heat.

If you do not have voltage at the 'R' terminal on the timer when it should be heating then you have a bad timer. Looking at the tech sheet the 'R' terminal has the red wire plugged into it.

Other wise the problem could be with the 1M and 2M contacts on the motor switch.
gunworks  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, December 21, 2011 6:00:20 PM(UTC)
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gunworks

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/27/2011(UTC)
Posts: 8

Kind of what I was thinking, since no voltage was detectable from there. Also checked the L1 terminal and continuity stopped there as well. I'll pick up a new part tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Thanks!
gunworks  
#4 Posted : Thursday, December 22, 2011 4:48:14 PM(UTC)
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gunworks

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/27/2011(UTC)
Posts: 8

Long story short. It was not the timer. Connection at the motor had vibrated loose and top end was not fully seated. Once the connection was locked down everything worked as advertised. Had I not checked the 1M and 2M contacts I would still be scratching my head. Many thanks.
ApplianceJunk  
#5 Posted : Thursday, December 22, 2011 5:14:49 PM(UTC)
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ApplianceJunk

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/24/2007(UTC)
Posts: 2,277

Glad you found the problem,
Happy Holidays
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