[Warren]

Our Whirlpool dryer no longer generates heat to dry clothes? Which part is no longer working as intended?

[Admin / APP Team]

Is there any heat at all?

If there is no heat:

1. Make sure one of the circuit breakers is not tripped
2. Make sure dryer gets 220 volts at the wall socket
3. Unplug the dryer and check the main terminal block for damage (this is where the power cord is attached)
4. Check the thermal fuse for continuity with an ohmmeter (fuse is number 7 on this diagram)
5. Check the heating element for continuity (heater is number 17 on the same diagram)
6. Check thermal cut-off for continuity (number 9 on the same diagram)

- Inexpensive multimeters (volt / ohm / amp, etc.)

Let me know what you find.

[Warren]

One of the circuit breakers had been tripped. I switched it back on. Ran the dryer for 15 minutes. Still no heat. I checked the wall socket - that's okay. Perhaps the thermal fuse is dead?

[Admin / APP Team]

Warren, you've checked the first two items on the list. Now I would check the rest. I listed those items in order for a reason. You always want to start from the beginning, from the power source, and move on down. Thermal fuse could be bad, but check the terminal block first. It's the next link in the chain.

[Warren]

I have discovered that there is a fan that needs to be removed to get to the thermal fuse (I think). How do I get the fan assembly off so I can get to the thermal fuse. Thank you.

[Admin / APP Team]

Warren,

Are you trying to access the fuse from the front of the dryer or from the back? The fuse should be easily accessible from the back. Unplug the dryer and remove the back panel. It's right on the blower housing.

Let me know how it goes...

[Admin / APP Team]

Warren, I'll post your email here:
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I found the thermal fuse. I'm not sure what I'm trying to find. There seems to be no break in the connection. There are two wire connectors going into the white housing. There is a shiny black material (looks like hard plastic) between the two connectors. I don't see any indication that the connectivity is broken. Could it be broken within the white casing?
Warren
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Warren,

You can't really check the fuse visually. Gotta use an ohmmeter (see link in my first reply). Since you can't see inside the fuse, you can't tell whether the wire is broken or not. Using an ohmmeter you can accurately check the fuse for continuity. Using the same meter, you can also check the heater and the thermal cut-off. You can purchase a meter from your local radioshack (or any electrical supply) or you can purchase one from us using the link above.

[Leesa]

Hello,
I'm replacing coils on a whirpool dryer, and I was wondering if it's easier to access these from the front or back....do you have a diagram...LGN2000LWO

[Gene]

Hi Leesa

To get access to all the parts inside the dryer, remove two screws at the lint screen slot and using a putty knife, push and pry the clip on each side in front of the top panel to release the holding clips. Lift up the top panel until it rests on the hinges. Unplug the quick disconnect plug for the door switch. Remove a screw from each side of the front panel. Pull the front panel up and toward yourself to release it from the retainer clips. Looking under the drum you'll find the idler pulley with the belt. Draw a picture of the belt that goes through the idler pulley onto the motor pulley so you will know how to assemble it back. Remove the belt and pull out the drum. Now you have access to all parts inside the dryer.

Good luck.
Gene.

[Warren]

By far the easiest way to replace the heater coil is from the back. Make sure your heating coil is bad before you buy and replace. I replaced several parts before I found the one that I truly needed. Unless you are positive your heating coil is bad - I suggest you go down to Radio Shack or electrical supply store and buy a ohmmeter. These cost $20-$30. You can check the connectivity for most everything including the heating coil.