[fyxer]

Before you attempt to change the coils make sure the dryer is un plugged from the wall outlet,if you have a six in one screwdriver the only other tool you will need is a putty knife,remove the lint filter,you will see two phillips screws,remove those,use the putty knife to pry the two clips holding down the cover,the two clips are about an inch or two from the corners,lift the lid up all the way until it rest on the back of the wall so it is out of your way,remove the tip from your screwdriver to reveal the 5/16 end--this is usually the bigger end--use this to remove the two 5/16 head screws from each corner inside the front panel,disconnect the wires from the door switch,bring the front panel towards you and pull up,put the front pannel a safe distance away from you,make sure you have a drop light,a drop light is better to work with than a flashlight,make a note of how the belt and pulley is situated before you remove the belt off the motor pulley,remove the tub and use your phillips screwdriver to remove the two phillips screws that hold the bracket over the coils,remove each coil and replace the new ones,re assemble,good luck.

[dchen]

Hi APP Team,

I followed all your 6 steps and tried to determine which part(s) might go bad in my Whirlpool Dryer model no LEC8858EQ0, no heat but run !

Here are the results:

Step 1 passed
Step 2 passed
Step 3 passed
Step 4 - Thermal fuse seemed to be good as the ohmmeter showed 0 (all way to the right)
Step 5 - checked the heating element continuity: it showed 0 if the two test points were touched on the two
terminals, BUT it sometime showed lots of resistance (or infinite resistance) if you touched the two test points on the coils ! How do you determine if the coils were brunt out ? or going-to-be-bad ?

Step 6 - check the thermal cut-off for continuity: the one (with two terminals) connected to heating element seemed to be goog as it showed 0 resistance. The other one part has two pairs of terminals (mounted directly under the Thermal fuse), one pair showed 0 resistance, the other pair showed 75% of resistance (with wires connected to different terminals), at this point I'm not sure if this part is good or bad.

Thanks in advance!

Dennis

[Gene]

Dennis,

Did you remove wires from parts in question prior to test them?

Did you check for 240V at the power outlet?

Gene.

[dchen]

Hi Gene,

I did NOT any wire from parts. I just unscrewed the screws and dismounted the thermal fuse, the heating element and the thermal cut-off, then used the ohmmeter to measure the continuity.

I did check the main power outlet, it showed about 220 ~ 240V with power cord plugged.

Do you think my heating element's coils were still good or bad ?

Regards,

Dennis

[dchen]

Just wanted to re-state it. I did NOT remove any wire from parts.

Note that the top part with # 3399848 on the mounting plate (I think it is part of thermal cut-off kit) showed inifinte resistance (is it Bad?) when measured on the two terminals. The bottom part with part# 3390291 (I also think it is part of thermal cut-off kit) showed 0 resistance (is it Good ?)

The internal bias thermostat with part# 3387134 (next to the blower) has two pairs of terminals, one pair showed 0 resistance (is it Good ?), the other pair showed near infinite resistance (Bad ? or is this supposed to be ?)

Thanks in advance again,

Dennis

[Gene]

Dennis,

Wires MUST be removed prior to continuity test. Retest all parts without wires being connected and post the results.

For further references here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool dryer Model LEC8858EQ0

Gene.

[dchen]

Hi Gene,

Thanks for the reply.

Here are the results:

I removed all the wires from the following 3 parts:
- 3399848: top part of thermal cut-off
- 3390291: bottom part of thermal cut-off, also ca is called thermostat, High Limit
- 3387134: thermostat, Internal Bias

The 3399848 did NOT have continuity on two terminals, it showed near infinity resistance. (BAD!?)
The 3390291 did have continuity on two terminals as it showed 0 resistance. (GOOD!?)
The 3387134 has two pairs of terminals, the outside-long pair of terminals does HAVE continuity as it showed 0 resistance (GOOD!?), the inner-short pair of terminals does NOT have continuity as it showed near infinity resistance (BAD!?)

I bought all three brand new parts yesterday, before connecting to wires, I measured all parts' continuity,
the 3399848 showed 0 resistance (GOOD!), the 3390291 also showed 0 resistance (GOOD!), the 3387134,
the outside-long pair of terminals showed 0 resistance (GOOD!), the inner-short pair of terminals, however, STILL showed near infinity resistance (NO continuity, NO GOOD !?, or this is supposed to be!?)

Anyway, I installed these three new parts in place, and finally I GOT HEAT!!! look like that the 3399848 (top part of thermal cut-off) was BAD !, I put a load of wet clothes in the dryer, it did dry the clothes,
HOWEVER, IT DID NOT STOP ! AND CONTINUOUSLY RUNNING !!! I CHECKED THE Automatic Cycle Knob did NOT move AT ALL !!! STILL POINTED AT THE BEGINNING OF POINT!

Any idea/clue what part is bad causing this problem ????

Thanks again,

Dennis

[Gene]

Dennis, you did really good job!

About the timer - I need to know if it does advance on the timed cycle?

Gene.

[dchen]

Hi Gene,

The timer did NOT advance to the timed cycle; it did NOT move at all,
stayed at the same location! I have to MANUALLY stop it!

Which part(s) is bad ? or what to check on the Automatic Cycle timer ?

Regards,

Dennis

[Gene]

Hi Dennis,

Most likely the problem is a bad timer.

- The part number for the timer is AP2973903

Gene.