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Yesterday, I turned my dryer on to dry some clothes and it would not dry the clothes. There is no

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-21-2009, 10:02 AM
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Default Dryer won't dry clothes, NO HEAT
Model Number: REX3514RQ1   Brand: Roper   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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Yesterday, I turned my dryer on to dry some clothes and it would not dry the clothes. There is no heat. The dryer knob on the Automatic Setting but won't spin but the Timed Dry knob spins. I tried drying the clothes again & I set them dry for about 1 hr. and the clothes are not drying. I am told there's no heat and the problem might possibly be the "Heating Element" is broken or it could be 'fuse'. PLEASE HELP! What is the problem???


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2009, 03:39 AM
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Default

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL REX3514RQ1 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/...%208576793.pdf

Could be either of the parts you listed.
The circuit path for the heater is: L1 , TIMER SWITCH 2 , THERMAL CUTOFF NOT RESETTABLE (thermal fuse) , OPERATING THERMOSTAT , HI LIMIT THERMOSTAT , HEATER , centrifugal switch 1M/2M , L2

Check the heat element first as you can visually confirm if it is open.

Next would be the thermal fuse. This is the one mounted on the heater case. Best is to remove one wire from it and check it with a meter, should be 0 ohms.
Jiggery pokery method is to short the two wires to the fuse together, tape them up so they cannot short to the frame, plug the unit in and give it a try.
If the fuse is blown check you vent system, drum seals and blower to be sure that one of these was not the cause for the blown fuse.

Next would be the thermostats both should be 0 ohms at room temperature.

Always unplug the unit when working on it 240 volts is lethal!!

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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