[rphaunef]

Ok thank you. I will be tearing it down this weekend and will have the motor sometime next week. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for all you assistance.

[epaparo]

Originally Posted by rphaunef

Ok thank you. I will be tearing it down this weekend and will have the motor sometime next week. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for all you assistance.

I had same problem, but service mode came up fine. I put a wet towel in the dryer and set it to towels. It works, hot blowing air.

[fcid2020]

I understand more on the electrical parts but I don't seem to know how to get to the blower motor. Which side/screw should I open to get to the blower motor? I tried the back side but I found all the side panels are fixed together. I ended up opening the top side and control panel. The blower motor appears to be at the bottom side.

Thanks for any help.

[applianceman]

Ok you already have the top off all you have to do is remove the front. Open the door and remove the screws in the door pointing toward the drum plus two screws on top. Once done the front should come off door and all. Once off you will get to anther panel held on by screws remove it. Then you can reach under the tub and unhook the belt to remove the drum. Hope this helps. Clothes Dryer Repair Guide

[rphaunef]

Ok I got the motor and it is installed, but now I need the belt diagram for the drum. The one that are posted at the beginning of this forum do not match the setup on this dryer. Thanks for the help.

[rphaunef]

Hooray!!!!! It works. Figured out the belt diagram and got it all back together. Tested works fine. Doing laundry now. I really want to thank applianceman for all is Great Knowledge and for sharing to people he could be charging. He helped me more than a "Certified GE repairman" that came to my house took 5min to start the dryer and then charged me 85.00 for the service call without tell me exactly what was wrong with my unit. Again I really appreciate all your help applianceman. I will always come back here when I need to repair an appliance.

[fcid2020]

I checked the blower wires (blue, red, yellow) and they tested 15 ohms each. The inlet thermistor is open (0 ohm), the 2 heater elements are both 18 ohms. Upon invoking the diagnostics (Back and My Cycles), it showed 3 errors:
1) problem with inlet thermistor - it must be busted. Are there particular brands for GE?
2) blower is not getting to speed - what could be the other problems here? all the blower motor coils tested good.
3) problem with heater box - isn't this where the heating elements are? they tested 18 ohms. I'm not sure how to test the triac at Inverter/CN16. I tested continuity on CN16 terminals 3 and 1 (red and black) and it's 0.

Comments please? Thanks.

[fcid2020]

Can you tell where the inlet thermistor is located? I could trace it with the colored wire, though.

[applianceman]

Rphaunef, You are very welcome!!



Fcid2020

You can access the inlet thermistor from the back of the dryer there is a small access cover. The ohm reading on the thermistor at room temperature should be around 2.27 K (can be off by +/- 5%).

The heater box error can be caused by the thermistor being bad.

The inverter board is the only thing that can cause all three of those error codes, but they could be separate problems.

Check the ohms on the motor windings at the inverter to make sure there is not loose connection between the board and the motor.

[fcid2020]

Thanks for these additional info, applianceman. Friday morning, I found the inlet thermistor at the back. Appears to test as open. I bought a replacement and changed the part. When run, there is still no heat. Further observation when the front side was taken out shows that the blower just jerks every now and then, but did not run fully and continuously. I checked later that my old thermistor read alright, same reading as the new part. So both my thermistors (inlet and outlet) are OK, my heating elements are OK, my blower motor coils (3) are OK and no loose connections. The voltages that go to the blower motor are +5v and -5v. The only part I couldn't check is the triac (not familiar with what the terminals should read) next to the heating elements. Any input what the reading should be? Likewise, the 2 thermostats (high limit and output safety) in the heater box appear to be OK, read 0.5 ohms.

Damn! (sorry for the language). With the inlet thermistor and the heater box OK, only one problem from GE's list that remains - blower motor not gettting to speed. Could you confirm that the mother is defective? If it is, will you suggest shop that can fix or how can I get one?

Thanks for your help.