Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LTE6234AN3 COMBINATION UNITS | AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for your tech sheet.
Looks like the unit was actually made by Whirlpool.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]t'stat problem or limit problem.[/COLOR]
Could be either of these.
First I would check/clean your vent system. Also check/clean the blower wheel.
Following is one way to do this.
Unplug the unit and disconnect it from the vent system.
Now try a run.
If it now dries OK odds are the vent system needs checking/cleaning.
Be sure to check that the louvers on the outside of the house open correctly.
If you do not want any lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose.
Put one leg into the other and then attach this to the dryer's vent.
Leave enough room so the pantyhose can balloon out like a windsock.
Both the above will let you check the temperature and the air flow.
Note: The above is not recommended for gas dryers due to carbon monoxide concerns.
Next I would check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it.
Next would be the cycling thermostat (Item 42 in Section 4). You will notice that it is 4 connector. 2 of them are the actual contacts the other two are for the internal heater. This heater is turned on for low heat setting. It adds heat to the thermostat causing it to cycle more often resulting in a lower unit heat output.
Disconnect one side of the heater and measure it, should be around 4,000 ohms.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
