[wevans70]

I have a Roper model number REX5634KQ1. Problem with it is that it was working one day and now wont. I checked the breaker and that didn't work. Im out of ideas at the moment, also It seems like the unit doesn't get any juice at all. I have no way to check at the moment to see if there is juice at the outlet.

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL REX5634KQ1 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/...%208528187.pdf

Does the light in the drum come on?
If not odds are high that you have a house wiring problem and not a machine problem, unless f curse it did not work before this problem.

Did you turn the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker. This can give the symptom you describe. Best to check it with a meter. L1 to L2 should be 240 volts and both L1 and L2 to Neutral should be 120 volts.

Next open the door and manually actuate the door switch while trying to start it. Could be it is just not being activated by the door. Best to check it with a meter.

Next would be the thermal fuse. The one on the blower assembly.
Unplug the unit, remove one wire from it and check it with a meter, should be 0 ohms.
OR
Try the jiggery pokery method
Unplug the unit, short the two wires going to the fuse together, tape them up so they cannot short to anything else, plug the unit in and give it a try.
If blown replace ASAP as this is a critical safety device.
Also if blown clean/check the blower wheel and your vent system.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

[wevans70]

Thank you for the info. I tried ( Try the jiggery pokery method
Unplug the unit, short the two wires going to the fuse together, tape them up so they cannot short to anything else, plug the unit in and give it a try.
If blown replace ASAP as this is a critical safety device.
Also if blown clean/check the blower wheel and your vent system.) this meathod and now my dryer works. Thank-you