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replaced the thermal fuse on my dryer. It ran for a few minutes, then died. I checked it for continuity

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Old 11-09-2011, 07:30 AM
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Default dryer thermal fuse
Brand: Maytag   Age: 5 - 10 years   

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replaced the thermal fuse on my dryer. It ran for a few minutes, then died. I checked it for continuity & it shows open. I ran dryer with it jumped & it seems to run normally. Do you think it is a defective part or are there other issues

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Old 11-09-2011, 07:41 AM
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A model number may help others help you.

Do not run the unit with the thermal fuse jumpered unless you are monitoring it. This is a critical safety device which prevents lint fires which can turn into house fires.
I am assuming the fuse that blows is on the blower assembly.

Unplug the unit and disconnect it from the vent system.
Now try a run.
If it now runs OK odds are the vent system needs checking/cleaning.
Be sure to check that the louvers on the outside of the house open correctly.
This is the most common cause of the fuse blowing.

If you do not want any lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose.
Put one leg into the other and then attach this to the dryer's vent.
Leave enough room so the pantyhose can balloon out like a windsock.

Both the above will let you check the temperature and the air flow.

Note: The above is not recommended for gas dryers due to carbon monoxide concerns.

Check/clean the blower wheel.
Check/clean the lint filter, sometimes they can get coated with fabric softener residue.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:46 PM
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Default maytag neptune mde6700ayw

the dryer quit heating found open fuse #ap4045859 . replaced it and dryer stopped heating again. same fuse blown again so i bypassed it and ran dryer to see if it was cycling the heat element and it does . this seems to be a common thing after searching this forum for similar problems. I have cleaned the vent , the lint screen and blower wheel . the new fuse only lasted a few minutes. the therm. attached to heat element shield tested ok when i put it on a stove. you can even here it open when it gets hot. the element ohms out ok and has no cont. to the heat shield. any sugg?
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Old 11-10-2011, 05:05 AM
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reporacer40

Please start your own thread using "Post New Topic"
Hijacking another person's thread will just confuse things.
Your unit is more complicated than most dryers out there
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Old 11-11-2011, 05:18 PM
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Default Thermal fuse

Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
A model number may help others help you.

Do not run the unit with the thermal fuse jumpered unless you are monitoring it. This is a critical safety device which prevents lint fires which can turn into house fires.
I am assuming the fuse that blows is on the blower assembly.

Unplug the unit and disconnect it from the vent system.
Now try a run.
If it now runs OK odds are the vent system needs checking/cleaning.
Be sure to check that the louvers on the outside of the house open correctly.
This is the most common cause of the fuse blowing.

If you do not want any lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose.
Put one leg into the other and then attach this to the dryer's vent.
Leave enough room so the pantyhose can balloon out like a windsock.

Both the above will let you check the temperature and the air flow.

Note: The above is not recommended for gas dryers due to carbon monoxide concerns.

Check/clean the blower wheel.
Check/clean the lint filter, sometimes they can get coated with fabric softener residue.
Replaced fuse (its on top of duct just above burner) cleaned blower wheel, blower housing and duct and removed vent hose. Ran a few minutes & then fuse blew again
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Old 11-14-2011, 04:45 AM
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What is the model number?

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner but I was at the cabin for a few days.

I though you were replacing a thermal fuse which is on the blower assembly.
Am not sure your unit even has one as I cannot find info on the unit without a model number.

It now sounds like you are replacing the thermal cut-off on the heater assembly.
There are more things to check if this is true.

Below is my usual blurb about this fuse blowing. It applies to most but not all dryers.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denman View Post
What is the model number?

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner but I was at the cabin for a few days.

I though you were replacing a thermal fuse which is on the blower assembly.
Am not sure your unit even has one as I cannot find info on the unit without a model number.

It now sounds like you are replacing the thermal cut-off on the heater assembly.
There are more things to check if this is true.

Below is my usual blurb about this fuse blowing. It applies to most but not all dryers.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)
IT IS A GAS DRYER & IT'S THE HI TEMP LIMIT ON THE BURNER TUBE.
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Old 11-14-2011, 11:00 AM
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Please start a new thread using "Post New Topic" and include the model number.
Model Number Locator

I do not answer gas appliance questions as I do not have much experience with them.
The reason that I've asked you to start a new thread is that other regular posters on this board will not answer a post if they see a regular is already handling it. There is just not enough time or people when the forum is busy.

thanks
denman
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